I must make the effort this year to get my 1947 4g much more reliable. It has had little use due to a bad misfire after about 10 miles into a run when the engine gets hot. I have tried many things, but I am sure it is the capacitor that is failing, although the magneto had a full rebuild many years ...

The "Next job continues". The fuel tank has had a further real clean with MEK (used carefully), Hydrochloric acid (dilute) and finally treat with phosphoric acid. The inside is mint, no leaks and does not need a liner, certainly not for the time being. I have got round the main jet holder ...

That IS a good idea Paul re using a much thicker spacer to get "over the hill" so to speak, I will pursue that. The whole magdyno unit came to me in fully restored, both mechanically and cosmetically, with an invoice from Stuart Towner. Initially I did not have any misfiring issues, but as...

Having got the side stand done, I need to address the poor running after about 10 miles or so and here I would appreciate help from those with iron 4G`s. My bike came as a kit of most parts, abandoned in the early 1990`s and some work had been done , the fuel tank being one of them. The bottoms had ...

After falling out with my 4G project some 18 months ago, I have been inspired to continue the challenge. Apart from what are common issues, the main hate that I had, was getting off this very hot machine and manoeuvring myself to the rear position to pull this heavy machine (for me) up onto the rear...

Found myself at a loose end today and filled the time reading All the posts on your 4G Paul. Glad I did, as it has rekindled my interest in my first Ariel which is a 1947 rigid/teles 4G that has sat under a dustsheet since I last rode it in October 2014. Like you I had done a full restoration over 2...

I agree with David and always set the rim offset with/to the bike. After initial truing of the wheel/s. With the front, centre the rim to the steering head. With the rear, I always check the final drive chain line, sprocket to sprocket, first, using a taut fine string or hand held laser - it nearly ...

WOW AGAIN! I wouldn`t dare post a picture of my alleged 1947 alleged 4G, unless I had a large whiskey ready.

I do not see powder coat to be any less grippy to the tyre bead than nice new chrome, stainless or paint. The guy who did mine does hundreds of rims, which many are not tubeless. I have never had any trouble with tyres moving on the rim whatever the finish, but having said that I am not a hard rider...

I have had this dilemma a couple of times in recent years with rims that are not tidy, but otherwise sound, round and true. These old, but good quality rims needed sprucing up and re-chroming was discounted for the reasons already given. In the first case I had one set sandblasted and powder coated ...