Tank Repair

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simon.holyfield
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Tank Repair

Postby simon.holyfield » Thu Aug 25, 2016 9:39 am

Chaps,

I had a jolly couple of hours in the garage the other night, (story is here http://ariel-square-four.blogspot.co.uk ... ering.html) and I actually got my W/NG started for long enough to ride it up the road & back.

For something bought essentially blind (lots of pictures, I was assured it ran, but I had not heard it) I'm absolutely delighted with it. It's such a completely different experience from the SQ4.

I have a teensy weensy problemette with the fuel tank, which is the original one and very sound. The problem is that some herbert has used the proper length tank bolts (though threaded for their full length) and screwed them into the tank with only one rubber in each corner. Result? a fast drip from the front nearside mount.

How would you all go about sorting this out? I could:

    1. braze it up and mess up the paint
    2. line the whole tank
    3. put a drop of some filler over the hole, from the inside
What do you think?
cheers

Simes

'51 Square Four,
'58 Huntmaster,
'42 W/NG,
'30 Model A
http://ariel-square-four.blogspot.com

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adrie.degraaff
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Re: Tank Repair

Postby adrie.degraaff » Thu Aug 25, 2016 10:12 am

I would put kerosine inside wich is taking up the petrol fumes, drain it out, leave all holes open, cut one side of the treadplate loose, heat the otherside and bend the plate up, weld the hole with iron, and than reverse the previus.

To protect your paint make a dike of wet clay around the welding spot.

john.whiting
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Re: Tank Repair

Postby john.whiting » Thu Aug 25, 2016 11:13 am

Kerosine fumes will explode just like gasoline or even oil fumes.The simplest way to weld tanks is to submerge them in a tank of water with just the area in question above the water.The smallest explosion inside a tank will open it out so the mounts no longer fit.The other safe way is to fill the tank with steam,CO2,or car exhaust,but the heat will burn the paint if you oxyweld.Mig or tig will localize the heat damage to a small spot,and you can sop a wet rag on as soon as you finish.Regards John

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simon.holyfield
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Re: Tank Repair

Postby simon.holyfield » Thu Aug 25, 2016 5:03 pm

I was rather hoping to use Araldite or JB Weld!
cheers

Simes

'51 Square Four,
'58 Huntmaster,
'42 W/NG,
'30 Model A
http://ariel-square-four.blogspot.com

kevinbowman
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Re: Tank Repair

Postby kevinbowman » Thu Aug 25, 2016 7:42 pm

I see that you are based in Norfolk like myself, in the past I have used compertition fabrications who are based in Attelborough tel 01953454573 they have repaired the aluminium tank on my racing Honda and made a good job of it. Might be worth a call kevin.

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simon.holyfield
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Re: Tank Repair

Postby simon.holyfield » Thu Aug 25, 2016 9:41 pm

Thanks guys. Where are you Kevin?
cheers

Simes

'51 Square Four,
'58 Huntmaster,
'42 W/NG,
'30 Model A
http://ariel-square-four.blogspot.com

Mike Nash
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Re: Tank Repair

Postby Mike Nash » Thu Aug 25, 2016 9:43 pm

Dear Simon,
Long ago and far away I was involved in battle damage repair of combat aircraft and we explored sticking on patches to holed fuel tanks with adhesives. There were no problem for the short lives we needed. And these days there's plenty on the interweb under "fuel-proof adhesives". Myself, I've a patch on the timing cover of my Morris Minor (the 1098cc A Series engine) held on with Araldite for a few years now without problems. Also I've blocked a leak in the sump with Araldite for many years without trouble. So I think you'll be alright with Araldite.
Regards, MikeN.
PS If you look up you'll big, long life airliners held together with glues - inc the tanks.

nevhunter
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Re: Tank Repair

Postby nevhunter » Thu Aug 25, 2016 11:47 pm

It's fairly common for overlength bolts to push a hole in the tank, in that location.. If you can clean it well and tin the area with solder, solder a bit of brass filter gauze in there and pressure test before re installing. There's no load on it and done well, the repair will be permanent. Nev

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pauldridge
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Re: Tank Repair

Postby pauldridge » Fri Aug 26, 2016 12:33 am

I had multiple pinholes in my tank. Repaired it with US tank sealer from POR15 A US Product

Works well if you follow instructions precisely (and no soldering welding involved
Phil Auldridge Austin, Texas - USA
Visit the North America Ariel forum: http://arielnorthamerica.org/phpBB3/
53 SQ 4 MK II, '72 Norton Commando, '78 BMW R100/7, '79 Honda CBX, 2014 Indian Chief Vintage

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grahamhibbs
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Re: Tank Repair

Postby grahamhibbs » Fri Aug 26, 2016 1:32 am

I would go for the solder option, all the old flat tanks were soldered.
Regards
Graham
West Sussex

1942 Ariel w'ng
1928 Ariel Model B
1960 Ariel Arrow
1960 Ariel Leader


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