Amelia's Blog

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simon.holyfield
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Amelia's Blog

Postby simon.holyfield » Thu Nov 24, 2011 12:29 am

Don't know if anyone is interested, but I have just started blogging my new Square Four project. The blog is at:

http://ariel-square-four.blogspot.com/
cheers

Simes

'51 Square Four,
'58 Huntmaster,
'42 W/NG,
'78 CX500
http://ariel-square-four.blogspot.com

Knud.Degnbol
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Postby Knud.Degnbol » Thu Nov 24, 2011 10:11 am

Are you sure that metal loaded filler is a good idea? One of the purposes of the cap is to insulate electrically. Fibre loaded might be better.

Knud

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brenton.roy
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Postby brenton.roy » Thu Nov 24, 2011 10:25 am

Great work with the blog Simes - and good luck.
Someone (the gift giver) has a wicked sense of humour. My wife gives me Oleander tea for the same reason...
By the looks of the photo's, we'll be corresponding a bit.
What you need is another complete one to compare the bits with. This could be excellent revenge?
PS - I agree with Knud. The metal filler in the cap would be a good conductor.
Brenton
'51,'56 Squares, '48 VH, '27 Model C, R67/2, Mk IV Le Mans, '06 Super Duke and Ariel projects.

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Keith.owen
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Re: Amelia's Blog

Postby Keith.owen » Thu Nov 24, 2011 5:05 pm

To fix the distributor cap what you need is some epoxy potting compound. This is the stuff used in the electronics inductry to 'pot' ie seal wound components. Normally you drop the component in a platic pot and then fill it with the resin. You will have to make a mold of sorts (it could be cardbourd) and just lightly grease the surfaces where you don't want the resin to stick. Provided it is not load bearing it should do the trick. You might have to stick a couple of slivers of aluminimum kitchen foil on the outside of the cap to form a surface onto which the resin can adhere, since often they don't bond well to plastics. This was how we used to epoxy weld cable joints many years ago when i was an apprentice technician in Busby's day. It might not be mega elegant, but it will work and you should be able to file.sand it to a nice shape and paint it with model paint. No one will really care except perhaps you, but later on when a good cap comes along, just change it out.

:mrgreen:
Keith
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1950 Rigid Ariel VH
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simon.holyfield
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Postby simon.holyfield » Fri Nov 25, 2011 6:37 pm

Yes, I'm thoroughly embarassed about the metal loaded filler gaff. I've been a Chartered Engineer for over 20 years (though admittedly not electrical) and I've been playing with cars and bikes for much longer so I should definitely have known better! :oops:
cheers

Simes

'51 Square Four,
'58 Huntmaster,
'42 W/NG,
'78 CX500
http://ariel-square-four.blogspot.com

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brenton.roy
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Postby brenton.roy » Sun Nov 27, 2011 2:57 am

Hi Simon,
I wouldn't worry too much. A while back we were building a thread on the less than spectacular things we do. Funnily enough, you are not alone...
I have a cap in the same condition as yours, and will be interested in seeing the results of your repair.
You have a fair bit to do to your bike, but the main lumps are in one piece, which is a good start. How do you plan to use the bike? If you are going to use it regularly, then you might take a different path than if you plan to build a show bike.
When you get to the motor, as well as the usual stuff, consider fitting either larger diameter, stepped studs or helicoils / inserts into the head (the originals pull out as you tighten them) and make sure the crankshaft oilways are cleaned out with wire - not just air. Blockages are the main cause of thrown rods.
Draganfly do full sets of nuts and bolts. Pulling them apart seems to always mean losing / stuffing up some of them.
Bennet Longman does 12V Alternators - made from GPz items (see knowledgebase).
You can get the exact info about how your bike left the factory from the club registrar.
BTW, I don't think the big battery on the "one day" photo is correct, so don't chuck your battery carrier out if you have a smaller one.
I also do think that the rounded flat steel bracket (posted earlier) is for an aircleaner.
Brenton
'51,'56 Squares, '48 VH, '27 Model C, R67/2, Mk IV Le Mans, '06 Super Duke and Ariel projects.

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simon.holyfield
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Postby simon.holyfield » Mon Nov 28, 2011 8:51 pm

Thanks for the encouragment Brenton!

I'm debating the 'use' discussion with myself at the moment.

I don't 'do' show bikes, but I like them to look original, and I don't like to add complication. So, I like to have modern batteries in original cases, upgraded wiring, halogen lamps, stuff like that. I'm thinking about discrete indicators this time too, since I use my bikes for any trips where I'm on my own & don't have to wear a suit.

I must admit I thought that large battery was right, but that is mostly because of that 'before' picture, and the diagram in the Draganfly catalogue. I'll be very happy to look for the smaller one, since there seems to be more of them around!

So, if you have some more pointers towards the smaller battery... Does your '51 have a small battery? That has been in your family for a while hasn't it?
cheers

Simes

'51 Square Four,
'58 Huntmaster,
'42 W/NG,
'78 CX500
http://ariel-square-four.blogspot.com

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brenton.roy
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Postby brenton.roy » Tue Nov 29, 2011 11:50 am

Hi Simon,
I'm hoping someone reading can better answer this question.
I looked at the Drags catalogue - and they know a lot more than me! The '51 brochure points to a larger battery too. I have a large cartridge type air filter that sits on the left side of the bike - hence the comment about your bracket.
Apparently, this was for the "export market". The plumbing for it wouldn't allow for the larger battery. I have another MK1 (much like yours, but motor has been stripped) and will check this out.
The only square fours I've seen with the big battery are the fluted tank Mk2's. To be honest, I also like the look of the smaller battery.
Yes, Dad did this bike up in the mid '70's. I have been really lucky to have grown up with these bikes - among others, he restored a few Ariels - a '55 Huntmaster, a '48 VH, a Leader and the Mk1. We were working on a '34 LH a '37 NG and a '56 MK2, so I have a few projects to complete...
The best bit is riding them, so I'm with you about doing the practical things that make it easier.
'51,'56 Squares, '48 VH, '27 Model C, R67/2, Mk IV Le Mans, '06 Super Duke and Ariel projects.

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simon.holyfield
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Postby simon.holyfield » Mon Feb 06, 2012 9:36 pm

Folks,

For those of you who like to follow restorations, I've added quite a few more posts to my Square Four blog...

Hope you enjoy reading it as much as I enjoy working on the bike!
cheers

Simes

'51 Square Four,
'58 Huntmaster,
'42 W/NG,
'78 CX500
http://ariel-square-four.blogspot.com

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jerry.mortimore
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Re: Amelia's Blog

Postby jerry.mortimore » Tue Feb 07, 2012 2:05 pm

Simon,
Large battery is correct. 1950 MkI had the smaller battery, 1951 MkI had the large one according to the parts books. Many years ago the club did a booklet on the Square 4 called Square Forum (still available from me at 3GBP plus postage) that has a picture of a 1950 Square 4 with the Burgess export air filter and it is easy to see that you couldn't fit it with the big GUZ11E battery so the small one would have had to be used.
Jerry
1935 cammy Square, 1938 VB, brace of 1950 MkI Squares, 1959 MkII Square and several Ariel and Fleet pushbikes.


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