The three sprockets on the bike have no effect on the gaps. That's entirely determined by the internal gears of the gearbox. Where the sprockets do have an effect is on the ability to start out on a hill carrying a load, for which low overall gearing is needed, and the ability to cover long distances on flat highways at reasonable speeds but with low-ish rpm to minimize wear on the engine, for which high overall gearing is needed. Since one can't have both low and high simultaneously, compromise is needed. In my case, I expect longevity to be more of an issue than slow speed riding, so I will be gearing for a high overall ratio to keep the rpms down while covering the Great Plains at 50 or 55 mph.chris.vredenbregt wrote:I don't know what effect it has on the gaps between the gears
I'm doing my best to ride this event using 1928 technology except where that would be impossible (e.g. using 1928 oil) or unsafe (e.g. using a tiny stoplamp). The only real exception to this that I can think of is my bike came with a magneto but instead of swapping for a magdyno I'll use LED bulbs and a battery that I'll recharge overnight. However, that's actually not much of an exception since light bulbs are the only modern technology and they don't provide any substantive "performance advantage" for the machine. As I wrote previously, use of the Chronometric instead of a period-correct speedometer is for the sentimental connection with Val Page's later work.marcus whatling wrote:You could check your speedo with a modern GPS type thingy
Although they never quite mastered it, Lucas had discovered electricity by 1928 so lighting with actual light bulbs was an official option for my Model C.marcus whatling wrote:So you don't fancy the pyrotechnics of the acetylene lights .
I agree, but "high" and "low" is the terminology that Ariel used, and that also is used for the club's reproduction gearset, so it's probably best to use it here to minimize the chance of confusion.nevhunter wrote:Generally I refer to a close or wide ratio gearbox when discussing these alternatives.
From a table in the original Ariel manual I infer that they considered redline to be ~5500 rpm. With its current 23T engine and 19T gearbox sprockets, running it at 50% of redline would be 48 mph, and with the 21T gearbox sprocket I intend to fabricate for it (I already have the sprocket, but need to broach the splines), that would be 53 mph. At a more modest 43% of redline(*) the speed would be 45.5 mph with the larger 21T gearbox sprocket.nevhunter wrote:The USA one emphasises speed so your engine needs to stay on song for a long time.
My Arial has an open primary case, but it also has two breathers with outlets that drip its "total loss" oil on the primary and the main drive chain. However, there's enough side clearance for me to use "maintenance-free" X-ring chains for both and they should last the length of the Cannonball without lubrication.nevhunter wrote:Also I oil the front chain about every 100 miles where it's not in an oil bath.
I agree completely, which is why I'm rebuilding the bike from the ground up. I've finished the girders and front wheel, as well as the rear wheel, so the "only" things left are the engine and gearbox... Since I'm doing such thorough preparation, fingers crossed that, with luck, I won't need good luck. Touch wood...nevhunter wrote:Preparation is everything ... Good luck.
A seven-day, 1200-mile ride I took in October on Gold Stars gave me a small taste of what I'll face. Although the bikes are "modern" by comparison, they aren't all that modern. A friend had flown in from Europe to accompany me but the daily maintenance of both bikes fell to me so I know the feeling of a succession of long days followed by evenings in the parking lot keeping bike(s) in good condition for the next day.brenton.roy wrote:I think you'll do the 400km OK, but it'll be close to the limit of sun up till sun down travel.
I'll be taking lots of spares (three extra of everything I won't end up needing and none of what I do...) but X-ring chains of the correct size deal with more than 5x the maximum h.p. of the Ariel so wear may not be as significant as you fear.brenton.roy wrote:Primary chain wear is more pronounced than for drive chain. Take at least one spare.
Indeed. When I found myself with an entry and started looking for a bike to use -- it has to be at least 90 years old -- what I didn't want was a Harley or Indian because "everyone" else would be on one of those. Initially I looked for a British V-twin but I didn't see myself "investing" Brough Superior levels of money for this Cannonball folly... er, I mean rally, and other possibilities were elusive. Anyway, I ended up with the 1928 Ariel. It squeaks in under the cutoff date so has just about the most modern technology that's eligible.brenton.roy wrote:It's an obvious thing to say, but these motors weren't designed to be driven in the way you intend.
I arrived in your fine country just a week ago. However, no possibility to organize any motorcycle riding because I was there for only three days. Two years ago a friend loaned me a Gold Star for a day-long ride on the roads to the west and south of his home at the western edge of Sydney and it was a spectacular day. I may be back next November for the BSA International in Grampians National Park, but after 4000 miles on a rigid-frame bike in the September Cannonball there's the chance I'll never want to get on a motorcycle again for the rest of my life...brenton.roy wrote:I've attached a couple of photo's for your jollies. These long rides are fantastic adventures, and not to be missed.
Can't wait to take them.brenton.roy wrote:Can't wait to see your pic's.
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