If I could ask for some more advice. When the shock absorber nut on the crankshaft is done up tight, should the spring plate be locked solid, or should it be able to turn. I bought a new crankshaft sleeve nut and the hardened washer from Drags, and when I tighten it up, with the pressed steel spring plate that I have, the nut bottoms out on the end of the crankshaft shock absorber sleeve and the spring plate is still able to turn. When I do the same thing with the thicker and seemingly better quality spring plate which I also have, the plate is locked solid and cannot turn. (See picture. The pressed steel spring plate is laying on the bench underneath.)
On Drags web site on the page for the hardened washer 1294-18 it says that "The simple addition of a washer between the nut and the spring cup allows the spring to move without turning the nut," which surely means that the spring plate must be able to turn otherwise why would Drags go to the trouble of making and selling the hardened washer, which wouldn't be needed if everything had to be locked up tight.
Now I always thought that the perceived wisdom on this was that every thing should be done up tight, but reading what Drags say it does make sense that the spring plate should be able to turn.
So which is correct, all locked up solid, or the crankshaft nut done up tight and bottoming on the S/A sleeve and the spring plate able to turn? If its the latter, its no trouble to turn a little bit off of the shoulder on the crankshaft nut to give the spring plate a little bit of play to allow it to move, but I don't want to do this if the whole assembly should be locked up solid.
Once again, any advice would be much appreciated.