1955 Huntmaster questions

Singles, twins and fours.
david weare
Posts: 56
Joined: Fri May 29, 2015 3:30 pm
Contact:

Re: 1955 Huntmaster questions

Postby david weare » Sun Aug 30, 2020 10:20 am

Hi John

I believe the chain is new or newish.
The present owner hasn't ridden it much but didn't recognise the irregular rattle sound.
So I think it was the first time. It disapeared readily when riden and thereafter.

Mag kill switch. OK also good to know.
Perhaps people fit additional kill mechanisms?

Thanks
D

john.whiting wrote:Sounds like the tension is pretty well OK ......be very careful to check when hot ,and check a full revolution or more ,because there may well be tight and loose spots ......if the primary chain has a number of links that are a multiple of the engine sprocket,there will be worn regions in the primary.I know Ariel chains are difficult to remove ,so no need to do that ,if its near new.....but check thru the hole for broken rollers and marked sideplates...........incidentally ,maggie cutout(earthing points) stop the motor at idle ,but wont normally stop it at speed ,for instance if the carby sticks wide open,so dont rely on it.

david weare
Posts: 56
Joined: Fri May 29, 2015 3:30 pm
Contact:

Re: 1955 Huntmaster questions

Postby david weare » Sun Aug 30, 2020 11:11 am

Also the Huntmaster seems to deposit a teaspoonful of oil just below the front / centre of the engine, on the ground.

Hard to pin point where this is from.

If its from the vertical split in the crankcase this would be a problem I imagine.
But may likely come from the sludge inspection plate or whatever it's called or either side casing.

Is this a standard place for leaks?

Thanks
D



Simon.Gardiner wrote:Briefly:
1) That's normal - should have auto advance-retard fitted
2) No idea, unless it's happening under load in which case it's the engine shock-absorber cam slipping (unfortunately, my particular area of hard-won expertise for these)
3) Half-width is standard spec for '55 and often considered better than the later full-width variety, they are often not properly adjusted (same hub/brake as singles and 500 twin, see a couple of other recent posts).
4) Should have a magneto 'kill' button.

(Engine-wise, it's the same as a BSA A10)

HTH

SG

Mick D
Holder of a Waxed Cotton Anorak
Holder of a Waxed Cotton Anorak
Posts: 342
Joined: Tue Nov 27, 2018 2:49 pm
Contact:

Re: 1955 Huntmaster questions

Postby Mick D » Sun Aug 30, 2020 11:37 am

Hi

The primary chain tension is recommended to 3/8" total up down measured at the middle of the top run and with the chain positioned to it's tightest point - this would suggest your chain is too slack.

The rectangular plate front centre bottom of the crank cases held on by four nuts, (possibly wire locked together), is the sump plate. It's easily removed and re-sealed. It is however the lowest point of the engine so the majority of oil leakage will gravitate there - give the engine a very good clean and then a short stationary run, you will see where the oil is coming from on shut down, check the two oil pipe connections at the rear of the timing cover, the oil pressure valve at the front of the timing cover, (the domed shape thing) and the sump plate itself.

Regards Mick

david weare
Posts: 56
Joined: Fri May 29, 2015 3:30 pm
Contact:

Re: 1955 Huntmaster questions

Postby david weare » Sun Aug 30, 2020 2:40 pm

Hi Mick
Thanks for the advice.
OK yes 3/8" - I think it was touch more than that TBH

I suppose all joints can be re sealed relatively easily except the centre crankcase joint.
So hopefully lots of contenders for the leak source before I get to that.
I forgot to really investigate when I viewed the bike.

David


Mick D wrote:Hi

The primary chain tension is recommended to 3/8" total up down measured at the middle of the top run and with the chain positioned to it's tightest point - this would suggest your chain is too slack.

The rectangular plate front centre bottom of the crank cases held on by four nuts, (possibly wire locked together), is the sump plate. It's easily removed and re-sealed. It is however the lowest point of the engine so the majority of oil leakage will gravitate there - give the engine a very good clean and then a short stationary run, you will see where the oil is coming from on shut down, check the two oil pipe connections at the rear of the timing cover, the oil pressure valve at the front of the timing cover, (the domed shape thing) and the sump plate itself.

Regards Mick

JohnnyBeckett
Holder of a Golden Anorak
Holder of a Golden Anorak
Posts: 1278
Joined: Sat Jul 07, 2018 5:39 pm
Contact:

Re: 1955 Huntmaster questions

Postby JohnnyBeckett » Sun Aug 30, 2020 4:25 pm

hi david a lot the leak on the crankcase is the sump plate and the bolts that holds the plate on

will_curry
Holder of a Waxed Cotton Anorak
Holder of a Waxed Cotton Anorak
Posts: 313
Joined: Thu Oct 08, 2015 12:56 am
Contact:

Re: 1955 Huntmaster questions

Postby will_curry » Sun Aug 30, 2020 5:11 pm

With regards to the oil, if the engine hadn't been run for a while there's a good chance
some oil has drained down through the pump and into the sump. Once started, the
pump will scavenge most of the oil but in my experience there is usually a bit of smoke
in the exhaust and a slight loss of oil through the crankcase breather.

nevhunter
Holder of a Golden Anorak
Holder of a Golden Anorak
Posts: 4149
Joined: Tue May 10, 2011 9:42 am
Location: Victoria.. Australia.
Contact:

Re: 1955 Huntmaster questions

Postby nevhunter » Mon Aug 31, 2020 2:09 am

Force tension on the rear chain and see how much the front chain changes. This indicates wear in the gearbox sleeve gear or the large ball bearing race (less likely) That bike requires the highest quality chain. Not split rollers. Chain stretch or wear will give irregular feel of up and down . Nev

john.whiting
Holder of a Golden Anorak
Holder of a Golden Anorak
Posts: 1707
Joined: Sun May 22, 2011 2:10 pm
Location: Brisbane QLD
Contact:

Re: 1955 Huntmaster questions

Postby john.whiting » Mon Aug 31, 2020 3:14 am

Yes,never disregard the primary chain in an Ariel......there is a good reason Ariel primaries are twice the price of others on fleabay.

david weare
Posts: 56
Joined: Fri May 29, 2015 3:30 pm
Contact:

Re: 1955 Huntmaster questions

Postby david weare » Tue Sep 01, 2020 2:28 pm

OK thanks. makes sense, bike hadn't been run for a while.

Do you recommend a non return valve?

will_curry wrote:With regards to the oil, if the engine hadn't been run for a while there's a good chance
some oil has drained down through the pump and into the sump. Once started, the
pump will scavenge most of the oil but in my experience there is usually a bit of smoke
in the exhaust and a slight loss of oil through the crankcase breather.

will_curry
Holder of a Waxed Cotton Anorak
Holder of a Waxed Cotton Anorak
Posts: 313
Joined: Thu Oct 08, 2015 12:56 am
Contact:

Re: 1955 Huntmaster questions

Postby will_curry » Tue Sep 01, 2020 10:15 pm

There should be one already built-in but they're not always that effective.
However, it's been a long time and I can't remember how to get to it.

I'm not a great fan of add-on non-return valves. If anything goes wrong
it's a wrecked engine. A friend of mine had one fail on a Matchless
twin - not a pretty sight and extremely expensive.

The best way to keep the oil where it belongs is to use the bike frequently.

There are a number of Huntmaster users who regularly contribute to this
forum. Hopefully one or more will be along soon.


Return to “Four stroke”

Who is online

Users browsing this forum: No registered users and 11 guests