Changing a tyre

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brenton.roy
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Changing a tyre

Postby brenton.roy » Sat Nov 03, 2012 11:15 am

Old tyres are a royal pain in the arse. They get pretty hard and seem to shrink into position.
They're not real safe either. This one had turned to bakelite...
it's a common issue for those with older resto's or a few bikes.
DIY?

This is the way my dad taught me. It might not be textbook, but that's what I know.
The rules are;
1. never use a tyre lever when you can use a rubber mallet.
2. take the tyre off by working towards the valve.
3. put the tyre on by working away from the valve.
4. don't put detergent and other crap on the tyre unless you have to.

Go easy for the first few corners. Particularly if it's wet. Even if you didn't use detergent, there's all sorts of crap on the surface.
Attachments
back plate cable axle nut pinch bolt.jpg
You'll need to undo the brake backing plate, brake cable, axle nut then the pinch bolt. Use a brass drift to remove the axle.
small spot of grease on the cam.jpg
While you are there, put a small spot of grease on the brake cam
9 16w or 26mm for axle nut.jpg
The axle nut is tight on a ring spanner because of the fork leg. A socket is better. Either size wiil do.
work from the valve 3 2 1 levers.jpg
I use the biggest tyre levers I can find. The bigger footprint makes less damage. 3 then 2 then 1 lever.
Always start at the valve end.
bugger of a job with old tyre move bead to rim centre.jpg
It's a bugger of a job with an old tyre. "Walk" the tyre both sides to break the bead. You may need to get a little forceful.
Keep the bead (at the other end) in the centre rim depression while you work. This gives you a little extra room.
tube out yes I saw my glasses before i damaged them.jpg
Tube out and in the bin. Don't be tempted to keep it - and yes I did find my glasses before I damaged them...
hammer tyre off tape up lever.jpg
Lever in and fold tyre over rim. I put tape on now to avoid paint damage. It's a pain as it isn't very slippery. Hammer tyre off, not lever.
20 inch use a 19 rim tape - time to check spokes.jpg
20 inch rim tapes are impossible to get. Don't use a 21 inch - it'll slip. ALWAYS replace the tape. This is a good time to check for lose or broken spokes. Tap tap... 5.5mm
tube in.jpg
Tube in
pump tube to revove kinks.jpg
Pump tube to remove kinks before putting the tyre on properly. Deflate.
work away from the valve.jpg
Valve end first, work away from it!
work new trye on with your foot start valve keep bead well in at other end.jpg
Work the new tyre on with your foot. keep the bead in the ridge at the other end.
your heel does all the work hammer only if you have to.jpg
Your heel does the work. Hammer only if you have to. NEVER use a lever. You'll be fixing a pinched tube.
about 50 to 70 psi should do it.jpg
Obout 50 to 60 psi should see the bead sitting properly on the rim. If it won't go, use soap, or detergent (I prefer soap if I have to).
Don't pump more than 70psi. You could do damage - to the tyre, and you.

Refit to bike. Remember to go easy for your first ride. Particularly if you have used detergent and it's wet...
'51,'56 Squares, '48 VH, '27 Model C, R67/2, Mk IV Le Mans, '06 Super Duke and Ariel projects.

pete.collings
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Postby pete.collings » Sat Nov 03, 2012 2:43 pm

An alternative to using a wet lubricant to aid tyre fitting is to use talcum powder. I have used the baby formula powder, as it has very little additives. It is also useful for threading wiring through a protective PVC sleeve when rewiring electrics.

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fpassmore
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Postby fpassmore » Sat Nov 03, 2012 2:56 pm

Amazingly enough, on a recommendation from a friend, I have used plastic grocery bags on the rim while removing/refitting tires and this helps them slip off/on just like using a lubricant but no mess to deal with. A little bit of shredding happens but they get recycled here anyways.

Frank
'51 SQ4, '37 VH500 Red Hunter, '56 SQ4 (basket case), '49 Sq4 (basket case), '48 A7 BSA Twin, too many other BSA's, Norton's, Triumph's, Ducati's and Japanese to list. Just crazed is all my problem is.

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Postby Silas.S » Sun Nov 04, 2012 7:48 am

If you have a sturdy metal dustbin, take the lid off chuck a sack over the bin to protect your spokes. This makes an excellent stand for tyre changing that saves a lot of the back-ache and protects the spindle ends, sprockets et.c. Polishing the business end of your tyre levers and keeping that bit smooth & bright pays dividends. When re-fitting the tube take the valve out and put one lungful of air in and put the valve core back. This gives just exactly the right amount of inflation to help prevent nipping. Don't do the valve retainer up until the tyre is on completely and the tube inflated. Before inflating the tube bounce the tyre gently on the ground rotating it so all bits get their bouince. Half inflate the tyre and repeat. This ought to help ensure that the rim reference line ends up where it ought to be without a lot of bad-tempered re-fettling. Silas.

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Postby Simon.Gardiner » Tue Nov 06, 2012 12:40 am

I've heard that soap or shampoo is OK but washing-up liquid isn't as it's got a high salt content.

The only other thing I'd add is make sure you get the tyre bead into the well.
'55 Huntmaster, '56 VH, ' 51 VH, '80 R100RT, '00 Sprint ST (but all those Ariel parts can only make one running bike...)

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brenton.roy
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Postby brenton.roy » Tue Nov 06, 2012 6:57 am

Thanks to all who have made comments and added. It's amazing what you can learn about even the simplest of things.
I think Nev mentioned in another thread about much of the old "common" knowledge being lost.
Simon, thanks for the comment re the well. I don't know about either soap or detergent.. The recipe for soap requires caustic soda, oil and salt... Talc and plastic bags sound pretty good!
Silas' comments have half filled the knowledgebase, so I'll be puffing and bouncing in future as well!

Any ideas around what we should do next?
'51,'56 Squares, '48 VH, '27 Model C, R67/2, Mk IV Le Mans, '06 Super Duke and Ariel projects.

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adrie.degraaff
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Re: Changing a tyre

Postby adrie.degraaff » Tue Nov 06, 2012 8:08 am

Just waited until it came to the last part.

With a hard tire or older rusty rims, having the tire in the bedding exept for the the last 10 cm, with the tire on 5 atu?, there is an easy solution;

put the hole wheel in a vice in such way that the tire is in the vice and the rim resting on the vice, press the tire in 3-5cm than push the wheel away from the 10cm, it will pop on easy.

you can put a protecting copperplate between rim and vice.

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simon.holyfield
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Postby simon.holyfield » Tue Nov 06, 2012 7:14 pm

Next, how about valve clearances, ignition timing, converting to 12 V?
cheers

Simes

'51 Square Four,
'58 Huntmaster,
'42 W/NG,
'30 Model A
http://ariel-square-four.blogspot.com

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john.nash
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Re: Changing a tyre

Postby john.nash » Tue Nov 06, 2012 7:29 pm

If you have to remove a very old and hard tyre.
You will often find that you can get one bite over the rim, with a lot of effort, but it will refuse anything else.

With the one "bite" hanging over the rim, then take a hacksaw and cut it CAREFULLY through (across that edge and half way to the middle). It only needs that one cut, the metal strands will part and relieve all pressure; the tyre will now peel off the rim by hand.
You MUST have some of the tyre, over the rim, for this to work. Otherwise you cannot get to an edge as it's in the rim.

I'm with Silas.
I just use the airhose to slightly inflate (opinions vary on this bit) and fit the tube and tyre.
I then inflate and bounce it about to get it popped up onto the bead. Might take a few goes.
Note that many tyres have a line along each edge that gives you a clue as to whether it's evenly seated right up to the rim.

Are we finished here, you think ?
If so, then if Brenton sends me his images then I'll pdf and create a home on our website for these things.
Must get around to doing the rest of the bulletins,as well (that is DULL)

Next ?
I have a WNG to go together this winter and a 500 to convert to twinport.
I can do pictures on those.
John "Josh" Nash
webmaster@arielownersmcc.co.uk
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2009 royal Enfield,1978 t140 bonneville, '67 CJ750, 196-ish Ural M62 outfit, 1960 k750, ''51 kH500, ''49 soon to be Ariel bobber, 47 VH twinport, '44 Ariel WNG, '43 Ariel WNG, '41 Ariel WNG and piles of rusty scrap ....

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john.nash
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Re: Changing a tyre

Postby john.nash » Fri Dec 21, 2012 3:30 pm

are we good to go with this ?

I added some images on rotation and rim reference line .... etc etc
Attachments
change a tyre.pdf
(532.1 KiB) Downloaded 51 times
John "Josh" Nash
webmaster@arielownersmcc.co.uk
AOMCC No.4119
2009 royal Enfield,1978 t140 bonneville, '67 CJ750, 196-ish Ural M62 outfit, 1960 k750, ''51 kH500, ''49 soon to be Ariel bobber, 47 VH twinport, '44 Ariel WNG, '43 Ariel WNG, '41 Ariel WNG and piles of rusty scrap ....


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