Burman GB gearbox

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john.whiting
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Postby john.whiting » Sun Nov 25, 2012 10:43 am

EP oil does attack some bronze bushings,and so the type of bronze used was changed to allow for this. It attacks sintered bronze[oilite] bushes in Burman boxes .Hypoid oil works by chemically reacting with bare steel,caused when the oil film on gears breaks down,there by protecting the gears from scoring on their contact surfaces.Theres no need to go into the technical details here.It is sold as a universal gear oil,to avoid confusion and stuff ups.No bike box needs EP oil. My objection to EP oil is what happens when moisture is present and the gearbox is not used every day.Rapid destruction of steel surfaces,usually in critical places such as the faces of gear teeth and shaft bearing surfaces.It seems to form an acid with water.I reckon I would have seen a thousand gearboxes and diffs requiring gear and bearing replacement from corrosion with EP oil. Regards John.

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Postby jon.hursty » Sun Nov 25, 2012 1:50 pm

I have just filled my Huntmater with EP 80/90W oil which seems to be what is listed in all my manuals etc.
It required about one pint before it trickled out of the level plug.
I do use the Penrite Semi Fluid Grease in another bike fitted with na XBAPH Burman box & that took one full 500ml bottle plus a top up from another bottle.
Regards Jon.

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Postby nevhunter » Sun Nov 25, 2012 9:40 pm

The important point , in my view and often overlooked is that engine oils of today do not meet the requirements for many gearboxes that operated on things like Castrol XXL etc years ago. I got this information from Borg Warner who make gearboxes here, and it was issued as a warning. Oils like Shell Superbike 4 will do shared eng/ geargox/clutch applications. I also use Agri multi-use or other similar spec oils in many gearboxes I run It is rated GL4 and also has inbuilt corrosion preventers. I use it in Ariel forks too as it is for hydraulic systems too and doesn't froth. Nev

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Postby john.whiting » Mon Nov 26, 2012 11:39 am

I dont usually comment on oil,but there seems to be an ever increasing number of owners who clean their old bikes with pressure cleaners, same as their moderns.Add that to EP oil,put the bike away until next month, and there might be problems.Regards John.

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Re: Burman GB gearbox

Postby andrew.chapman » Mon Nov 26, 2012 8:24 pm

The GB box takes oil. It takes an imperial pint. I use Millers Green Gearbox Oil. It has no EP additives.
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Postby admin » Mon Nov 26, 2012 9:08 pm

john.whiting wrote:I dont usually comment on oil,but there seems to be an ever increasing number of owners who clean their old bikes with pressure cleaners, same as their moderns.Add that to EP oil,put the bike away until next month, and there might be problems.Regards John.


and it washes the grease from the bearings and fills the carb, dynamo and magneto.
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Postby nevhunter » Mon Nov 26, 2012 11:26 pm

I don't even use a pressure cleaner on modern bikes. You don't want water into any of the places it can easily get into. Going for a bit of a ride afterwards is a help but it doesn't guarantee ther has not been a lot of water get in somewhere. It will ruin any thing. I had some brake Pads fitted when I was on a long trip . They cleaned the bike for me. (very nice). Some years later the thing wasn't handling well and I removed the back wheel and the bearings felt bad. Water had gone in and a taper roller bearing that would normally last for ever was water damaged to an extent it was dangerous. That was the ONLY time I have had anyone work on a motorcycle of mine in my entire life. A good tip for wheel bearings is marine grease. It is so difficult to wash off your hands with soap. I have found the Shell Nautilus stufff to be good. Nev

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Re: Burman GB gearbox

Postby Graeme.crawley » Sat Dec 01, 2018 5:41 pm

An old thread but my experience for what it is worth. BA box on a VB - used multigrade engine oil grease for many years and no problems. Told to use two stroke oil to avoid eating bearings but the layshaft bearing seized within 100 miles. Tried liquid grease from Penrith - can't recall exactly but felt it was not lubricating properly - might've seized a sleeve bearing so went away from it back to 20-50 castrol engine oil and no further problems apart from drips since it is a grease box. BUT on the Huntmaster GB box, I changed from 20-50 Castrol to 50 SAE and seized the inner sleeve bearing just idling on the stand! Fixed it with a new bearing but it siezed again within 1000 km although it was during some particularly long stretches in low gears due to shingle 3 inches thick for 15 km followed by 20km due to traffic jam. Damage was slight so reamed it out and cleaned the bronze off the mainshaft only to have it do it again so did I still make that bearing too tight? Third time lucky, I am ready to refill it now after this 3rd fix with a much greater tollerance than the last sleeve bearing but what oil???

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Re: Burman GB gearbox

Postby paul.jameson » Sat Dec 01, 2018 10:14 pm

I use Morris Oils AG90 gear oil in my GB boxes with no problems. If you buy it on line, remember to use the AOMCC discount code.
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Re: Burman GB gearbox

Postby Simon.Gardiner » Sun Dec 02, 2018 12:08 am

Always use straight 50 in my GB boxes, must be more than 25k miles and whatever type of 50 has been available since 1970-something. Never had any probs seizing anything up (or any other probs, come to that).

But there's plenty of folks swear by other methods of lube for these.

Can't help wondering if your problem might be the yellow metal in the bushes as metallurgy seems to be something that isn't properly understood by a lot of present-day parts manufacturers.

SG
'55 Huntmaster, '56 VH, ' 51 VH, '80 R100RT, '00 Sprint ST (but all those Ariel parts can only make one running bike...)


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