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Posted: Thu Jul 25, 2013 12:11 pm
by malcolm.johnson
Thanks everyone, being my first Ariel, I am a little reassured now, however I think the noise of mine is not a good experience and if better gears were available then I would put them on. Other than that a good ride, if I can stop trying for a fifth gear. Might eventually look at some taller gearing.

Re: Confused of Norwich writes on the subject of coupling ge

Posted: Sat Aug 17, 2013 3:16 pm
by MARK.WALSH
Simon
did you sort out the problem with the different threads on the coupling gear pusher/puller
I went to use my one today (supplied by dragonfly) and have the same problem as you...any answers???? (apart from draganfly have had us over)
Regards
Mark

Posted: Mon Aug 19, 2013 9:56 am
by simon.holyfield
I did sort it out, yes. It turned to be my own impatience - I wrote the post before I had taken the tool apart. You will find that both of the nuts have two threads - one for the puller screw and one for the crankshaft.

There is a bit about it in the 'coupling gears' post in my blog.

Cammy Coupling gears

Posted: Mon Aug 19, 2013 6:05 pm
by john.mitchell
Whilst on this subject I would like to mention the note below which will be going into September's Cheval. Jens Beusse is a long term Ariel Club member from Germany (and a good friend) who already has rebuilt one reliable cammy square which he used to tour Northern Britain with recently. The request is self explanatory.

Re: Confused of Norwich writes on the subject of coupling ge

Posted: Fri Aug 23, 2013 8:42 am
by MARK.WALSH
Simes
the blog on your rebuild is invaluable. I have the same year square 4 as yourself - sans chrome due to korean conflicts. I got the coupling gears on at last but I found my problem was that a previous owner 'staked the threads - hence making the puller hard to catch on to the shaft - all sorted now. by the way , always wondered how to measure the end float on the cranks (Ariel manual glosses over this procedure) . Your blog has given me another idea to achieve this without the use if a dial and by making a bridge across the face of the crank and measuring the distance from bridge to shaft. - might work....
regards
Mark

Posted: Fri Aug 23, 2013 10:37 am
by simon.holyfield
I'm really pleased you like it and find it useful Mark.

I've just put a new post up which you might like!

Re:

Posted: Mon Aug 26, 2013 11:53 pm
by Bob.Murphy
When I had a four pipe Square Four (back in the 60s/early 70s) the advice was to try different sets of coupling gears in order to get a pair with the tightest fit. I had four sets back then.

The set I used still clunked at tickover when the motor was hot but were tight enough to whine a bit when cold and run quietly above tickover.

It might be worth shopping around.

Bob.

Posted: Tue Aug 27, 2013 12:38 am
by nevhunter
They don't wear evenly. The load occurs at 'spots", so old gears will never be without backlash somewhere. If they whine a bit cold that is as good as you can get them. The lash will increase as the cases warm. Nev

Posted: Wed Aug 28, 2013 10:56 am
by john.whiting
Im convinced that most of the problem is that todays engine oils are thin as water,no matter what the numbers on the label say.Even so called castor oils have no body like they used to have.Regards John.

Posted: Thu Aug 29, 2013 1:22 am
by nevhunter
True John. Might be worth trying Aeroshell W-100 plus. Good quality 50 monograde. Nev