VH Clutch adjustment?

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ChrisNewton
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Re: VH Clutch adjustment?

Postby ChrisNewton » Fri Mar 24, 2017 9:28 am

Simon.Gardiner wrote:
Gary.Durrant wrote:...slacken off gearbox & swing it towards engine to allow removal of primary chain.....

Just make sure you've loosened the secondary chain before doing this!

Alternatively you might be able to slide the engine and clutch sprockets off together (leaving the chain joined and the clutch chainwheel and bearing assembled on the carrier that fits over the gearbox mainshaft).

SG


thanks i will try this if i get to this point - all good information .

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Re: VH Clutch adjustment?

Postby david.anderson » Fri Mar 24, 2017 9:38 am

Simes
the lip at the back of the inner hub stops the rear steel plate from falling off the back and contacting the outer hub. Steel on steel and 1 steel plate not engaged so yes it would slip like buggery. The friction material that is added to the outer hub is thick enough to stop the rear steel plate from falling off. It is also possible to remove the lip on the inner hub and to fit an extra friction clutch plate first to take the place of the friction material that was normally rivetted to the 57+ outer hub.
David

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simon.holyfield
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Re: VH Clutch adjustment?

Postby simon.holyfield » Fri Mar 24, 2017 10:11 am

That's what I thought. Its well worth having a look at the basket & centre of this 'problem clutch', preferably with some pictures posted to the forum.

I have to say that the cork clutch on my SQ4 is one of the nicest clutches I've had - no slip or drag, and very light once the cable is routed and lubricated correctly.
cheers

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ChrisNewton
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Re: VH Clutch adjustment?

Postby ChrisNewton » Fri Mar 24, 2017 10:21 am

simon.holyfield wrote:That's what I thought. Its well worth having a look at the basket & centre of this 'problem clutch', preferably with some pictures posted to the forum.

I have to say that the cork clutch on my SQ4 is one of the nicest clutches I've had - no slip or drag, and very light once the cable is routed and lubricated correctly.


i am good with a camera - when i start the process i will update with images for comment ...thanks for the assistance

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ChrisNewton
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Re: VH Clutch adjustment?

Postby ChrisNewton » Fri Mar 24, 2017 3:44 pm

simon.holyfield wrote:
simon.holyfield wrote:Is a bike of this vintage supposed to have friction material in the bottom of the basket?


To clarify, the 1957 on clutches have lining material in the clutch basket, an extra plain plate and a different centre. Mixing components is not going to be immediately obvious.

There's a description here:

https://www.draganfly.co.uk/index.php/a ... 710-clutch


Simon thank you - i have reviewed this at length in preparation for my next attempt

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Re: VH Clutch adjustment?

Postby ChrisNewton » Sat Mar 25, 2017 1:29 pm

Hi all
Please see attached images of sliding member and sprocket - i tried the clutch test and it never got hot - so i stripped it down to see whats what
has a 5 plate clutch - convinced that this was working correctly i moved on to the next phase

i have a link to a video here https://youtu.be/RHTXVRgug1g


so i think this will need replacing - comments please gents
Attachments
IMG_3141.JPG
IMG_3131.JPG
IMG_3124.JPG
IMG_3123.JPG

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Re: VH Clutch adjustment?

Postby Simon.Gardiner » Sun Mar 26, 2017 1:54 pm

Reading back it seems that Gary replaced the sprocket/sliding member so that ought to have eliminated these? Do a re-assembly without the spring and see if the cam actually allows the sprocket to rotate fully - I don't believe it should unless it's really really badly worn (such as the one photographed earlier) (however if it does rotate fully it's necessary to consider if it still would with the spring in place and fully compressed, which might call for a vice and some measuring).
Incidentally the sprocket in your photo is a 20-tooth which is a bit small for a 500.
5-plate clutch? There's a photo earlier (showing 'cleaned clutch plates') with 6 plates. The concerns about the clutch assembly being a problem relate to whether or not there's a lip at the back of the clutch centre; it there is a lip the back-most plate will be a steel one, if there's no lip it'll need to be a friction plate - unless there is some friction material bonded/riveted to the back of the drum.

SG
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Re: VH Clutch adjustment?

Postby alan.moore » Sun Mar 26, 2017 2:31 pm

Chris,
It may just be an optical illusion but do the two 'cams' fit together with no gaps?, they appear to have different cam profiles. I think the profiles should mesh fully
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Re: VH Clutch adjustment?

Postby ChrisNewton » Sun Mar 26, 2017 3:02 pm

ok gents thanks for the feedback to answer to couple of queries here turns out its a 7 plate clutch photo attached

i made a quick tool to hold the rear sprocket in place and the video is here https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=M5e0J_v ... e=youtu.be

so i am thinking at the very least the spring is past its best ?
Attachments
IMG_3150.JPG
IMG_3147.JPG

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ChrisNewton
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Re: VH Clutch adjustment?

Postby ChrisNewton » Sun Mar 26, 2017 3:42 pm

Simon.Gardiner wrote:Reading back it seems that Gary replaced the sprocket/sliding member so that ought to have eliminated these? Do a re-assembly without the spring and see if the cam actually allows the sprocket to rotate fully - I don't believe it should unless it's really really badly worn (such as the one photographed earlier) (however if it does rotate fully it's necessary to consider if it still would with the spring in place and fully compressed, which might call for a vice and some measuring).
Incidentally the sprocket in your photo is a 20-tooth which is a bit small for a 500.
5-plate clutch? There's a photo earlier (showing 'cleaned clutch plates') with 6 plates. The concerns about the clutch assembly being a problem relate to whether or not there's a lip at the back of the clutch centre; it there is a lip the back-most plate will be a steel one, if there's no lip it'll need to be a friction plate - unless there is some friction material bonded/riveted to the back of the drum.

SG


Simon - this bike wasn't the one Gary had this was the bike John Lloyd had - he started the thread some years ago - he sold it to me and it still had the issue- i am fairly sure its the sliding member because when i forced it to slip - it made a judder from the crank area.


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