Square Four MkI restoration complete - almost....

[simon.holyfield]

I just got the video to play, sounds excellent!

[simon.holyfield]

Here's mine, engine cold:

https://youtu.be/yHDg9bU3zwU

And after a run:

https://youtu.be/bcDwHXjBKOs

[pauldridge]

I recently got my '53 Mk II back together after a 2.5 year hibernation. All new engine innards. The first 100 miles or so were disheartening. It was clearly running incredibly hot, so I would limit my runs to just a few miles at a time at first. In addition, it seems oil was leaking everywhere. It did NOT want to start easily.. everything just so tight I think the engine wouldn't spin quite fast enough on a kick start. At first I had to get my wife to assist with a push down our inclined driveway, then it would crank right up.

3 oil changes/head retorques/valve adjustments and 650 miles later, the engine is just absolutely perfect.. It kick starts from cold every time with exactly 2 kicks.. first kick to "free up" the cold engine, then on 2nd kick fires right up. Engine running cool, almost no oil leakage, oil pressure from the Morgo runs 70PSI at cruise speed (I added a gauge), and the engine just couldn't be any smoother. I think with a brand new rebuild everything is going to be tight and reluctant at first. Take it easy, short rides and frequent oil changes (I did the first oil change after just statically running the engine about 10 minutes!), retorque and adjust valves frequently, and it will all fall into place.

Custom Oil Pressure Gauge and Combo Turn Signal/Horn/Kill Button

I am still running 40 wt non-detergent oil, plan on switching to full synthetic at about 1,000 miles

[Gui.dorey]

Hello everyone,

After fixing all the tidbits today I got the start procedure down and she is running lovely.
1. pull the bistarter out and turn the engine over with ignition off.
2. push bistarter in to mid position and ignition on.
3. she starts after the second or third kick.

Everything seems to be running smoothly. Gauge indicates a lot of pressure, good return flow into oil tank, good oil flow to the rocker boxes, dynamo charging, and the sound of the engine is just simply amazing. Hopefully the weather will play tomorrow and I shall try my first drive around the block.

Many thanks again to all for your helpful advice and all the tips! Invaluable help all of you.

Cheers,
Gui

[Gui.dorey]

And today the first run down the road and back. Everything seems fine. Had to adjust the position of brake clutch levers on the handlebars as well as the lever for the gear change. The speedo is not working quite right, as if it’s a bit stuck - needle moves but snags and sometimes stays stuck in one place. The clutch was slipping a bit so had to pull the cover off to tighten the springs, which meant the whole battery and tray had to come off first, the exhaust and the foot rest and the foot brake. Everything so full on this bike that nothing is easily accessible. Probably have to wait for next weekend for another try.
Cheers
Gui

[pauldridge]

That all sounds very familiar! First time I test rode my bike it wouldn't shift from 1st gear. Turned out I had replaced shift lever too low

[paul.jameson]

I am glad you got it going in the end and that only minor problems remain. A few days ago I started the Mk I which I have been working on for a Club Member for the first time. The technique of full (bi-starter) choke, kick over each cylinder compression, turn on ignition and kick again had it running on the second kick. You do need the throttle open a little way - perhaps 1/8 of total - throughout the kicking over process. I failed to mention this is my earlier advice to you, for which I apologise.

Having got the MK I going, it has taken me 3 days to stop the clutch from slipping and to persuade the brakes to work. In the end I simply replaced the fibre clutch plates with old cork ones and secondhand springs replaced the ones which came with the bike. In the case of the brakes, it boiled down to a little use, followed by careful adjustment, followed by a little use, followed by careful adjustment, etc.

The Mk I can be a very nice bike to ride. This particular example is a beauty for its ability to run smoothly at very low revs.

[simon.holyfield]

Got it .
There was a fibre washer already under there, but I added a second one just to try it out.

The front stays measure about 29mm from the fastener‘s centres. Here‘s a pic of the front stand‘s attachment. However the angle of the mudguard is set by the center stay between the fork legs isn‘t it?

Gui,

I got your PM, and measured my front stays, which are 27 cm centre to centre. The centre stay is the same as yours - 10 cm from the rolled edge of the guard to the stud centres. Incidentally, I measured my front stand too:

Also, I took this one:

This shows the tab on the front stand is bolted to the rear of the mudguard bracket - I can't quite make out how yours is fitted, maybe the other way round?

Hope you find this useful.

[Gui.dorey]

Hi Simes,

Thanks very much indeed. I gave you the measurements in mm but it should be cm of course.

I do seem to have something wrong. The central bracket is then correct, and the front stand is attached like yours. However my front stand is shorter than yours - 34cm - and the front stays are longer - 29.5cm.

Today I did a longer run and the engine is running very smooth. However when pulling up hill for example ther are some missfires and she seems to be somewhat lacking at higher speeds. So I believe she’s a little lean. I now removed the 2nd washer under the float needle for the next try. She also started up well warm after checking tire pressures and filling up at the petrol station.

This was this morning. I now wanted to go for another try but I can’t turn the engine - as if it’s stuck on something. I did stall it just as I got home. It doesn’t even want to turn in 4th gear pushing it back and forth... took the plugs out opened the timing case to see, and nothing amiss, but not even with all my strength on the rear wheel did I manage to turn it. Hmmm..... what now?

[simon.holyfield]

Sounds like mixture of parts around the mudguard, but not too difficult to sort out.

Have you tried turning the engine with the nut on the front crank? I'm wondering, is it the engine or something in the transmission. My W/NG is impossible to turn over sometimes - the kickstart quadrant and worn bearings are worn. I have to get around to fixing that.