Aftermarket alloy singles barrel and piston.

Singles, twins and fours.
Simon.Gardiner
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Re: Aftermarket alloy singles barrel and piston.

Postby Simon.Gardiner » Fri Jun 07, 2019 2:45 pm

Malcom:
I don't have any sleeve nuts that aren't holding the cylinder head down so unfortunately I can't do a useful photo of those.
Drags seem to have all the studs/nuts available, they have some photos but not dimensioned except for the info that the standard 1954-on nut (169-54) is 7/8" under head.
https://www.draganfly.co.uk/ariel/4-str ... head-valve
They've got the wrong photo for 169-54 (they show a bolt) but the photo for the alternative stainless-steel item looks to be correct!
Seems there's a slightly different part for the earlier VHA/VCH (although the stud is the same) - looks very similar to the later item, maybe that 'under head' dimension was changed.

Hope that's some help.

SG
'55 Huntmaster, '56 VH, ' 51 VH, '80 R100RT, '00 Sprint ST (but all those Ariel parts can only make one running bike...)

malcolm.johnson
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Re: Aftermarket alloy singles barrel and piston.

Postby malcolm.johnson » Wed Jun 12, 2019 11:26 am

Thanks Simon, very useful info. It seems from that information, that the proper alloy head and barrel uses 5 studs/nuts, whereas my aftermarket barrel must be solely intended for use with the alloy NH head, which as you know, uses 4 bolts. At least I now know how to proceed with the top end. Thanks again, Malcolm.

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Re: Aftermarket alloy singles barrel and piston.

Postby nevhunter » Thu Jun 13, 2019 7:19 am

What John W has said is pretty much essential The "reduced " diameter is thread root diameter or a bit less even, otherwise your studs expand (stretch) at the first thread and may break at that point eventually. It's also common for the (aluminium) faces where the special nuts bear to crush in to a smaller diameter. The original nuts Blind with washer face included and extended down the hole, are best for distributing load and preventing oil going down the studs. I got a set from John Budgen years ago. It IS harder to get the head off when you use studs, I think the last time I took one off my VCH I had to remove the rear rocker box( or both) first A bit of a tricky maneuver actually. You need to take the valve covers off first before you can manage the rockers. Nev

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Re: Aftermarket alloy singles barrel and piston.

Postby malcolm.johnson » Thu Jun 13, 2019 9:38 pm

I understand that no head gasket is used with the alloy head and barrel set up and are just lapped in together save the pushrod tube seals. What torque setting should I use for the 4 waisted studs/nuts for this aftermarket barrel and alloy NH head?

nevhunter
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Re: Aftermarket alloy singles barrel and piston.

Postby nevhunter » Fri Jun 14, 2019 12:35 am

I would keep on the lower side of any recommendation as they tighten up when they get hot, and the iron ones don't. I go a lot by feel and there must be no bottoming in the "blind" threads of the nuts. The studs must be the correct length,installed.. I'm not sure about the head gasket. They may have the "ring" one. My VCH has none, but it's easy to check . Both surfaces should contact when there's no gasket. The inner one a bit more than the outer to ensure sealing. Nev


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