Sq 4 rocker oil line leaks..

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paul.jameson
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Re: Sq 4 rocker oil line leaks..

Postby paul.jameson » Fri Jul 26, 2019 9:14 pm

I don't drill into the rocker shaft. I did warn that the clearances were tight. It can be done but it does need a lot of care, shortening of the standard union and of the top nut, which also needs tapering. To drill the hole in the rocker block you need a square bottom drill - I use a milling cutter.
Paul Jameson
36 4G, 37 VH, 53 ex ISDT KHA (project), 54 KH(A), Healey 1000/4 (project)
Former Machine Registrar & Archivist, General Secretary and Single Spares Organiser (over a 25 year period).
Now Archivist once more - but not Machine Registrar.

bob cottam
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Re: Sq 4 rocker oil line leaks..

Postby bob cottam » Sat Aug 03, 2019 7:33 pm

disregard post-lost photos -see post below!
Last edited by bob cottam on Sat Aug 03, 2019 7:38 pm, edited 1 time in total.

bob cottam
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Re: Sq 4 rocker oil line leaks..

Postby bob cottam » Sat Aug 03, 2019 7:35 pm

Hi Paul- no milling machine at my disposal I`m afraid..... so I decided on a slightly different approach within the scope of my workshop....
I have cut through the existing oil pipes in order that I can remove one elliptical plate at a time, to minimise any disturbance to the head joint.

I removed each plate in turn, and opened up the central hole to accept a threaded socket. The threaded sockets I turned up on a lathe, and brazed them into place before replacing each plate back in the motor, with the head bolts torqued back down again. I made the sockets with a 3/8 female cycle thread, the ideal size to fit into place, yet large enough in diameter to give clear access to the oil recesses in the top of each rockerblock.
This means I can now remove/service the oil pipes easily, and get full access to the head bolts for re-torqueing in the future.

I made up new pipes with brazed on flanged ends similar in dimension to the original Ariel fittings, and with captive follower nuts rather like car brake pipe nuts. I have opted for soft alloy sealing washers turned from bar- I could use copper or o rings -it will be easy to experiment to get the best type of seal!
It took a while to work out the dimensions to squeeze everything in, and a bit of prototyping but I am pleased with the result-only mistake so far is I had to split/grind down a 3/8 AF ring spanner to pass over the copper pipe and nip up the follower nuts as it is very tight- but slightly taller a MK2 nut is in the offing to give better spanner access.
Some pics below.....
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