The rebuild starts - 1935 Red Hunter

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chrisf
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Re: The rebuild starts - 1935 Red Hunter

Postby chrisf » Sun May 31, 2015 3:29 pm

Think I'll crimp... it just sounds better... :lol:
1935 NH350 - 1947 BSA M20 - 1972 Vauxhall Viva - 1972 Austin-Morris J4 Van

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Re: The rebuild starts - 1935 Red Hunter

Postby nevhunter » Mon Jun 01, 2015 4:58 am

Chris. That VCH was put together by me 43 years ago. I didn't really know what it was so just put everything I had of it back together. It was SAD but I didn't modify at all ( except for the lights) I still have the original BTH TT magneto. It's the first bike I actually restored right through. Nev

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chrisf
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Re: The rebuild starts - 1935 Red Hunter

Postby chrisf » Fri Jun 19, 2015 6:40 pm

The tank made a brief re-appearance after chrome and is due back from the painters tomorrow (it was supposed to be painted at the chromers but that's another story!!)... anyone any tips on re-fitting the tank badges? ...had to turn the regulator around, as predicted by Vincent with my fat rear end on the saddle there was a collision...
Headlamp needs to go on and the wiring completed then I'm 90% there :D
Still need a brake pedal and clutch cover, brake pedal especially if anyone can help... and then fingers crossed...
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1935 NH350 - 1947 BSA M20 - 1972 Vauxhall Viva - 1972 Austin-Morris J4 Van

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paul.jameson
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Re: The rebuild starts - 1935 Red Hunter

Postby paul.jameson » Fri Jun 19, 2015 9:51 pm

The badge screws are 3BA. Jerry Mortimore used to do, and may still do, screws with a head profile similar to that of the original solder blob. I would advise use of these if you can get them. An alternative is to use dummy screws and stick the badges on with silicone or similar.

The original way to hold the tank badges on involves making some brass 3BA screws. Use a suitable drill or countersink bit to remove the plating around the screw holes of your new badges (having bent them to the shape of your tank, hopefully without cracking the enamel) and screw lightly to the tank. Apply flux to screw and badge. Heat just enough to raise the temperature of screw and badge to take solder and apply to the joint, removing the soldering iron with a flourish so as to produce a nice dome over the screw of solder. I found the only way to do this was to use electrical multi core solder using an old fashioned copper soldering iron heated flipping hot in the domestic barbecue. It can be done, but it is far from easy.
Paul Jameson
36 4G, 37 VH, 54 KH(A), 75 Healey 1000/4, 52/53 ex ISDT KHA (project).
Former Machine Registrar & Archivist, General Secretary and Single Spares Organiser (over a 25 year period).
Now Archivist once more - but not Machine Registrar.

nevhunter
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Re: The rebuild starts - 1935 Red Hunter

Postby nevhunter » Sat Jun 20, 2015 3:42 am

Chrisf, starting to look good. I haven't decided on a high or low pipe yet. The high pipe looks good but I still recall some burns on my first 1935 RH 350 (two port) Bought it in 1953. if I wasn't careful where my legs touched.
Regarding the rigid model brake pedal, They don't seem to be too common here also. You could actually fabricate one that would be hard to pick if you did it carefully. Have one to copy from though. Love the bike Nev

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chrisf
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Re: The rebuild starts - 1935 Red Hunter

Postby chrisf » Sat Jun 20, 2015 9:03 am

Thanks Nev, some photos / dimensions of the brake pedal would be really useful if you could please.
I rode the bike twice at the end of last 'summer' before the strip down, and I melted my over-trousers on the high level pipe so yes there is clearly a risk... although I share your opinion that the high level pipes do look better.
Paul, thanks for the ideas on the tank badges, I don't have an old fashioned soldering iron but maybe an electrical one might do it? I'll try and find some 3BA screws but I still have the original tank badges so I'll be kicking myself if I crack one!! How about Araldite :?:
Chris
1935 NH350 - 1947 BSA M20 - 1972 Vauxhall Viva - 1972 Austin-Morris J4 Van

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Re: The rebuild starts - 1935 Red Hunter

Postby nevhunter » Sat Jun 20, 2015 9:59 am

Chris I'm the world's worst at posting photo's. See how you go with somebody over there. I'm chasing a pedal for my bike too, but if you are going to make one you need one in your hand to copy. the Anstey link one is different so you need a definite rigid type pedal. It would be possible to cast them in steel. If there is a general shortage that might be a goer. It's difficult to use the original as a pattern but the people I know here in Victoria are good foundry workers and can do it. There is a bit of cleaning up to do afterwards , but they do alloy steel for motorbike frame parts for Vincents etc. Nev

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chrisf
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Re: The rebuild starts - 1935 Red Hunter

Postby chrisf » Sat Jun 20, 2015 1:47 pm

OK Nev, I'll see what I can find, thanks again.
Just picked up the tank, looks great, fitted the knee grips but deliberated over the new ones vs the old ones... I managed to clean one of mine up, and one that Leon kindly sent me all the way from Oz hasn't come up too bad either, not perfect but I think they look better than the pattern ones??
They don't sit snug to the tank though, should they? Have I fitted them wrong? Didn't expect a gap around them to the tank...
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1935 NH350 - 1947 BSA M20 - 1972 Vauxhall Viva - 1972 Austin-Morris J4 Van

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Re: The rebuild starts - 1935 Red Hunter

Postby Knud.Degnbol » Sat Jun 20, 2015 9:41 pm

Have you tried to let them change place?

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Re: The rebuild starts - 1935 Red Hunter

Postby nevhunter » Sun Jun 21, 2015 5:11 am

You might have to bend the plates they fit on. Nev


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