The KH project

john.mitchell
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Re: The KH project

Postby john.mitchell » Sat Jun 09, 2018 11:19 am

I have done this on my FH.
John Mitchell
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Paul Slootheer
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Re: The KH project

Postby Paul Slootheer » Sat Jun 09, 2018 2:42 pm

Steven and John, I seriously would consider the idea to create a drain plug in the sump plate but it is a bit more severe I'am afraid... :(
Maybe a KH is more sensitive on this subject then a FH or a BSA. I once did own a 1972 Norton Commando which also gave the same problems. Even after I fitted a brand new oil pump it started to wet sump after a few weeks of bedding in. On it's own this KH pump works fine and is capable to give, quite some pressure when the engine is hot: 25psi on tick over and 80psi at ± 50mph. For now I did choose to fit a tap and a ''reminding cord'', because somehow I do not trust the Velocette anti drain valve. Also from what I did read about it. Maybe I should do some enquiry on the Yamaha outboard control valve in the future :idea:
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john.whiting
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Re: The KH project

Postby john.whiting » Sun Jun 10, 2018 1:39 am

Nortons of all kinds have always been notorious for dumping the oiltank contents into the sump......but at least the crankcase holds all the oil........my brother came back from holidays to find his Harleys had done same thing,with a gallon of oil in each bike running out under the garage door.

Vincent.vanGinneke
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Re: The KH project

Postby Vincent.vanGinneke » Sun Jun 10, 2018 10:59 pm

This Velo is now on offer on Ebay, I noticed it has a oil tap with a 'ring' around it.
In the text it says that the bike cannot be started with the tap closed.
I assume this 'ring' has some sort of electric contact in it ?
Anyone knows?

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nevhunter
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Re: The KH project

Postby nevhunter » Mon Jun 11, 2018 12:46 am

I can never bring myself to tip the drained oil back in the motor, so I toss it. re Harleys, I've an 81 sporty that never sumps and I've had it from new. It runs a trochoidal pump like most cars do.
Where sumping does happen, if the motor can be started, idling will often return the oil to the remote tank in a few minutes. Revving it will often make more smoke. Worth a try. there's enough preparation before riding to try to eliminate one extra chore. One trick is to not fill the tank fully. That limits the amount that goes to the sump. Don't do this on a plain bearing engine, only on a roller bearing one where it will get enough oil by splash to keep things happy. Nev

john.whiting
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Re: The KH project

Postby john.whiting » Mon Jun 11, 2018 5:29 am

I certainly prefer a tap I can see to a valve that I cant.......Ive had enough experience with valve balls sticking on seats in various machines and pumps to not trust one ....Thats one advantage of a Panther,all the oil lives in the sump....but I still check the level before starting......As to my ES2,if its started with a sump of oil,it fills the muffler with oil,and the days are gone when I would venture onto a road with a smokescreen pouring out.Someone will drop a dime on me ...with pictures.........

Vincent.vanGinneke
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Re: The KH project

Postby Vincent.vanGinneke » Mon Jun 11, 2018 9:10 am

The 'advantage' would be that no one can see your licence plate through those bellowing clouds ! :lol: :lol:

jj.palmer
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Re: The KH project

Postby jj.palmer » Fri Jun 15, 2018 12:33 pm

On the subject of stop wet sumping, on my KH I made and fitted a manually operated ball valve that is interlocked with the magneto to avoid starting the engine until the valve is at least 75% open. When the valve is fully open it is locked in position by a spring and ball to avoid it closing through vibration.
The valve came from Screwfix for about £5 and the micro switch off an old washing machine door.

See attachments.

Regards,
John P.
Attachments
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Paul Slootheer
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Re: The KH project

Postby Paul Slootheer » Fri Jun 15, 2018 4:41 pm

Interesting John, are you making these commercial?

jj.palmer
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Re: The KH project

Postby jj.palmer » Fri Jun 15, 2018 7:41 pm

No Paul, it is a one-off, when I first purchased the bike it was fitted with the auto type valve using a ball and spring but having seen a video were someone had set up a test rig and demonstated that the auto valve can restrict the flow of oil, not the pressure but the volume of flow, I opted to fit a manually operated valve like you have done.
Then, sometime ago there was a discussion on this forum were members highlighted the consequences of forgetting to switch the valve on so that prompted me to interlock the valve with the magneto.
In the attachments I have shown a breakdown of the valve and micro switch so that other members can make one themselves, it is mainly made out of rod and sheet brass, pinned and soldered together. Although I have a small lathe that helped it could be made with hand tools ie drill, hack saw and files.
Hope this helps.

Regards,
John P.


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