WD Contract Plate

specifications, colours, contract nos, variations etc
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Michael.Brown
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WD Contract Plate

Postby Michael.Brown » Wed Jun 24, 2020 10:22 am

Hi all,

What is the correct place and position for the Contract /Cat. Ref. Plate as fitted to the W/NG . It has a two hole fixing.

Mike
1942 Ariel W/NG
1960 Ariel Arrow
1960 Ariel Leader
1963 LE Velocette MK3

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admin
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Re: WD Contract Plate

Postby admin » Wed Jun 24, 2020 1:27 pm

The BSA WD forum is pretty good for this sort of stuff.

I believe it varies.
My understanding is rear of mudguard, just above the hinge, is a favourite place. But I have seen them post pictures with it on the top part of the numberplate (for early bikes when they had them), toolboxes (or wrapped around the mudguard stay on enfields)

Here's a picture of one on the lower part of an Ariel (which is likely going to be covered by your numberplate)

https://s713.photobucket.com/user/rewdc ... 1.png.html

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alan.moore
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Re: WD Contract Plate

Postby alan.moore » Sat Jun 27, 2020 10:35 pm

Here's a still from a video from 1944 i posted some time ago. Same as where John has said

vlcsnap-00002.jpg
1944



This ones from 1943 and no sign of it in that location on the rearmost bike but possibly its on the rear face of the upper toolbox??


wng early.jpg
1943


contract plate toolbox.jpg
contract plate toolbox.jpg (58.14 KiB) Viewed 97 times


The next bike in line appears to have it on rear mudguard above the unit marking

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Alan
1939 VH Redhunter;1942 RN WNG;1951 Triumph 6T Thunderbird;1970 BSA B175 Bantam;1986 Yamaha SRX600 single
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nevhunter
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Re: WD Contract Plate

Postby nevhunter » Sun Jun 28, 2020 2:10 am

TWO W/NGs one of which I still have, have them (originals and matching) positioned on the lower read mudguard. They didn't even bother to get the holes LEVEL when they were drilled. Why would it matter? Be lucky to ever get properly cleaned in service and they were touched up with a bucket of paint and a small broom. By doing it with a rattle can (Matched acrylic lacquer) and a rag over the tire to stop overspray
and sanding the scratch, I'm probably overdoing it..
Save $1ooo,s on paint ,chrome etc by owning a military bike. Hurry while stocks last.. Nev

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Re: WD Contract Plate

Postby admin » Mon Jun 29, 2020 1:53 pm

nevhunter wrote:. By doing it with a rattle can (Matched acrylic lacquer) and a rag over the tire to stop overspray
and sanding the scratch, I'm probably overdoing it..
Save $1ooo,s on paint ,chrome etc by owning a military bike. Hurry while stocks last.. Nev


My other WNG (the one furthest away in the picture below) is looking pretty bad.
I think it's 10 years (probably more) on the road, winter and summer, and the british weather (and road salt) has taken it's toll. It still is my bike of choice on really shitty winter days.

I quite like powdercoat, for the coverage/durability and that I can just give it someone else to blast and coat ;) - BUT getting it in BS381c olive drab is almost impossible locally.
I am debating whether to light sand back and handpaint or do it properly by stripping back to metal and spraying. I have a tin of enamel in the right colour and I can use a spray gun.
Part of me, like Nev, is thinking a light sand and a few thick hand painted coats. On the other hand, I've been doing that for a few years and it probably needs the full treatment (takes bloody ages with the wire wheel on the angle grinder).

What would you do ?

threeWNG.jpg
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alan.moore
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Re: WD Contract Plate

Postby alan.moore » Mon Jun 29, 2020 10:26 pm

John
If the underlying paint is basically intact and your going to spray the enamel then you should be able to flat back what is already on there which should give you a good prepared surface for spraying. Obviously check the enamel does not react with whats on there already.

If you decide to get the old paint back to bare metal then you can still get industrial paint stripper on ebay. Its like the old nitromors and works well. Only problem is that the solvents in it evaporate away really quick, especially if its warm weather. I tend to give stuff a good coating then wrap in cling film and leave overnight. You will need a decent face mask --not a dust mask but a spraying mask like you use for spraying and some decent rubber gloves not the thin nitrile type--much easier then wire brushing it away.

Cheers
Alan
1939 VH Redhunter;1942 RN WNG;1951 Triumph 6T Thunderbird;1970 BSA B175 Bantam;1986 Yamaha SRX600 single
http://cloggymoore.wix.com/triumph-pre-unit-6t

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Re: WD Contract Plate

Postby nevhunter » Tue Jun 30, 2020 12:24 am

Sandblasting thin mudguards can be a bit destructive and threads need protection if you are going to do the lot. IF you have the effects of salt I'd do the job properly with zinc and etch primer where appropriate. Not in great thickness. Thick paint just chips and breaks away around fasteners. Rattle can is for local repairs where you don't have to continually clean sprayguns.
You avoid worrying about what's underneath crocadiling when you strip it by whatever method. Wet repeat coats tend to aggravate the crocadiling effect Sand will come out of places as you spray. Stripper will cause paint faults unless neutralised. With painting have no grease wax or oil about. Have the frame on a jig to rotate it to stop runs and get at all parts you would miss otherwise. Coat on still tacky but not wet previous coat for best adhesion Get zinc etc between rivetted on straps on the guards.
Super attention to detail is not a military vehicle feature. Paint jobs are literally "rough as guts" Your paint job is as much "protection" as anything else. I know I used to work on operational army DUCKS used in the SEA..How long do you think the brakes lasted? Nev


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