Won’t start after hot

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alan.moore
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Re: Won’t start after hot

Postby alan.moore » Sat Nov 30, 2019 4:08 pm

Eric,
Tony Coopers details:

110 Olive Lane, Halesowen, West Midlands, UK
Post code B62 8LT.
Phone UK 0121 559 2405

He does not do email or have a website. I have had three mags done by him and they have been spot on and at a very good price. He regularly deals with folks all over Europe.

Cheers

Alan
1939 VH Redhunter;1942 RN WNG;1951 Triumph 6T Thunderbird;1970 BSA B175 Bantam;1986 Yamaha SRX600 single
http://cloggymoore.wix.com/triumph-pre-unit-6t

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Re: Won’t start after hot

Postby EricBorg » Mon Dec 02, 2019 9:14 am

Thanks again everyone for your replies,
I’ll give Mr.Cooper a call and we’ll go from there.

With regards flooding,

I’m running the bike on an AMAL concentric carb, runs great and I do have the decompressor all intact.

If it was flooding (as some people suggested) wouldn’t the plug be wet with fuel when I remove it? Mine isn’t, just a little black with carbon but not wet.

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admin
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Re: Won’t start after hot

Postby admin » Mon Dec 02, 2019 3:47 pm

EricBorg wrote:Thanks again everyone for your replies,
I’ll give Mr.Cooper a call and we’ll go from there.

With regards flooding,

I’m running the bike on an AMAL concentric carb, runs great and I do have the decompressor all intact.

If it was flooding (as some people suggested) wouldn’t the plug be wet with fuel when I remove it? Mine isn’t, just a little black with carbon but not wet.


Didn't know you had a concentric on there.. which is much less "floody" than the original fitment pre-monobloc.
My pre-monoblocs just decide to flood on their own sometimes or once flooded just take ages to sort themselves out. I think it's been said here before that the float system doesn't always get the best seal on the float needle.
The pre-monoblocs are also preset with regards to the float height and rely on the right thickness union nut, washers and positioning on the float chamber (there are different angle float chambers as well) to set the right float level.

Concentrics are better, but the float level still has to be set right on them.
John Nash
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webmaster@arielownersmcc.co.uk

JohnnyBeckett
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Re: Won’t start after hot

Postby JohnnyBeckett » Mon Dec 02, 2019 9:42 pm

HI i run concentric on my w/ng 1939 and my 1953 and they run good i don't get no flooding starts first tine i get a little bit of black soot on the plug i put it down to it needs a good run or its is burning a little bit of oil well it is over 70 years old and all old engines from new burn oil i still think it is the mag that needs looking at :!:

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Re: Won’t start after hot

Postby nevhunter » Tue Dec 03, 2019 12:15 am

They all work well if put together properly, but the original responds a lot to leaning the bike when starting. If you are on it and leaning to the left you must tickle it when starting. I've NEVER had a better starting bike than my W/NG. It usually fires first compression, not just first kick. I'd like the top feed bowl. I'll do one when I get around to it .Nev

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Re: Won’t start after hot

Postby EricBorg » Tue Dec 10, 2019 9:31 pm

JohnnyBeckett wrote:HI i run concentric on my w/ng 1939 and my 1953 and they run good i don't get no flooding starts first tine i get a little bit of black soot on the plug i put it down to it needs a good run or its is burning a little bit of oil well it is over 70 years old and all old engines from new burn oil i still think it is the mag that needs looking at :!:



Hi, did you fit a heat block (Bakelite) before the carb??
If so what size did you use and did you change the mounting studs?? I’m running mine without and seems ok.
Thanks

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Re: Won’t start after hot

Postby JohnnyBeckett » Tue Dec 10, 2019 10:34 pm

HI Eric i used a 1/2" thick spacer made of tufnol and i got longer studs om the drags site i think they was something to do with head studs with cycle thread each end i think they was about 1" 5/8" or 1" 3/4" long if i can get to my ariel in the next week i will let you know how long they are you need to get just over 1/2" longer studs than you have now i used a spacer to help stop the carb fuel getting to hot

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Re: Won’t start after hot

Postby nevhunter » Tue Dec 10, 2019 11:06 pm

It could be the Concentric is more likely to transfer the heat to the area were the bowl has the fuel in it but the original carb set up is unlikely to require any insulation between the carb and the head the way it's bowl is mounted. Nev

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Re: Won’t start after hot

Postby EricBorg » Wed Dec 11, 2019 1:34 pm

JohnnyBeckett wrote:HI Eric i used a 1/2" thick spacer made of tufnol and i got longer studs om the drags site i think they was something to do with head studs with cycle thread each end i think they was about 1" 5/8" or 1" 3/4" long if i can get to my ariel in the next week i will let you know how long they are you need to get just over 1/2" longer studs than you have now i used a spacer to help stop the carb fuel getting to hot


Thanks for the reply,

Can’t find anything on the Draganfly website so I’d appreciate it if someone could post a link to what I need please , especially the studs as the tufnol spacer I found on eBay but is only 3mm thick. Would this be enough??

Again I appreciate any help.

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Re: Won’t start after hot

Postby JohnnyBeckett » Wed Dec 11, 2019 6:30 pm

hi i did not get the spacer form drags i got it on ebay and the studs i did get them in the end after i look up on drags list of studs and found them because drags only can find what they have got for the carb studs as i said you can find studs just over 1/2" longer than you have got now on drags site just look at all the studs they do and i did find 1/2" thick spacers on ebay or surrey cycles do tufnel spacers i have got them from them not long ago at the show they are in the old bike mart paper


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