Batch Plating

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simon.holyfield
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Batch Plating

Postby simon.holyfield » Thu Nov 08, 2018 8:28 pm

Has anyone looked into getting batches of small parts stripped and related?

I have most of the engine and gearbox fasteners for the FH, plus things like the dynamo straps and carburetter drip shield which I'd like to get stripped zinc plated - I think they would have been cadmium plated originally, they are certainly not chemically blacked.
cheers

Simes

'51 Square Four, '58 Huntmaster, '42 W/NG, http://ariel-square-four.blogspot.com

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Re: Batch Plating

Postby jj.palmer » Fri Nov 09, 2018 8:18 pm

It is not difficult to do the plating yourself, once having the kit it should last you for ever.
I bought a zinc plating kit from "Gateros Plating" some years ago, the parts that were plated are still good, no corrosion etc..
The setting up of the process is rather long, therefore it is best to plate all of the the parts at one time, obviously towards the end of the refurbishment, it took me approx 2/3 days.
Also, see the excellent article that was written on plating on this forum sometime ago, I believe it was by Alan Moore.

John P.

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simon.holyfield
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Re: Batch Plating

Postby simon.holyfield » Fri Nov 09, 2018 9:15 pm

Thanks John. Yes, I've done some zinc plating using the Gateros kit too, quite successfully.

How would you go about removing the old plate?
cheers

Simes

'51 Square Four, '58 Huntmaster, '42 W/NG, http://ariel-square-four.blogspot.com

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alan.moore
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Re: Batch Plating

Postby alan.moore » Fri Nov 09, 2018 10:49 pm

Simon,
If the original is zinc then brick cleaner from the likes of B and Q (check it is the dilute hydrochloric acid type) will remove it in no time. As soon as the part stops bubbling take it out Then rinse in a solution of bicarbonate of soda to nutralise the acid. Then continue with the Zinc plating process as normal. Best to do it all as one process as the parts go rusty quickly once they have been chemically cleaned. I think the acid will also remove the original cadmium plate.
Cheers
Alan
1939 VH Redhunter;1942 RN WNG;1951 Triumph 6T Thunderbird;1970 BSA B175 Bantam;1986 Yamaha SRX600 single
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simon.holyfield
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Re: Batch Plating

Postby simon.holyfield » Fri Nov 09, 2018 11:46 pm

And if a part has surface rust, I guess the acid will convert that to the black oxide? Is that FeO to the chemists?
cheers

Simes

'51 Square Four, '58 Huntmaster, '42 W/NG, http://ariel-square-four.blogspot.com

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Re: Batch Plating

Postby nevhunter » Sat Nov 10, 2018 1:59 am

The original may be Cadmium. Both it and the form of chrome you get when stripping are very hazardous. I did some of my own but won't do it again. Get it done professionally. Pearl chrome is a lovely alternate finish. Not the same as dulling the bright bath product. Cadmium treated as it is today is a honey colour. Not really suitable. Zinc us the least bothersome. (Threads etc) Aviation work where Cadmium was originally used has substituted an alloy, Zinc -nickel, the cadmium is so dangerous to handle.
Rust is a hydrated Iron oxide Fe2 O3 . H2O. Zinc provides a galvanic protection as well as a mechanical (coating) one . While the zinc is present the steel won't rust under it until a reasonable area is exposed. It's quite soft. ALL electroplating of load bearing items should be heat treated after plating or stripping or they suffer Hydrogen Embrittlement. Nev.

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Re: Batch Plating

Postby alan.moore » Sat Nov 10, 2018 12:40 pm

Simon,
There must be no other compounds on the plain steel items before plating so converting the rust will not work, it must be manually removed either blasting with glass or abraded. I use scotchbrite wheels on the bench grinder. The hydrochloric acid dissolves the iron oxide (rust) forming iron chloride in the solution so it will remove any rust but the parts will still need to be cleaned to provide a 'virgin' surface for the plating process.

Phosphoric acid, which is sold as a rust remover, is in fact a conversion process turning the rust into iron phosphate which is chemically bonded to the steel. This forms a protective layer and is the base process in Parkerizing. You cannot plate onto parts cleaned with phosphoric acid.

Hope that helps
Cheers
Alan
1939 VH Redhunter;1942 RN WNG;1951 Triumph 6T Thunderbird;1970 BSA B175 Bantam;1986 Yamaha SRX600 single
http://cloggymoore.wix.com/triumph-pre-unit-6t

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Re: Batch Plating

Postby nevhunter » Sun Nov 11, 2018 12:15 am

The major part of the cost of plating is in the preparation. With a lot of fine parts it's best you do it yourself, and just say "plate only". Many parts are ruined by overzealous polishing and rounding off of sharp edges where the original definition is lost and the part becomes scrap. Another consistent problem is the building up of the plating near the end of a bolt or stud, making the nut hopelessly tight. Chrome and nickel are very hard metals. The only real safe way to remove the excess is by reversing the current and immersing the end only in the electrolyte and periodically checking the reduction in thickness of the deposit. Nev

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Re: Batch Plating

Postby john.whiting » Sun Nov 11, 2018 4:50 am

Industrial parts ,bolts nuts are generally tumbled in a barrel with various abrasives,or cleaning media to prepare the surface for plating.It also cleans up sharp edges and burrs left by machining.Sometimes for hours,but a ton can be done at a time,so the process is very economical.

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Re: Batch Plating

Postby john.whiting » Sun Nov 11, 2018 4:55 am

Zinc /electrozinc/sprayzinc looks good when new,but quickly goes dull grey or even black......zinc also reacts with oil and fuel,forming a soapy flake material.The spoke s on most bikes were electrozinc,not chrome ,until the seventies and "bling" became essential.


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