New member, '52 VH500

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PeteL
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Re: New member, '52 VH500

Postby PeteL » Fri Jan 17, 2020 7:36 pm

In the '70s I found my '38 350 nipped up its piston every time I had the throttle wide open. Eventually I solved it with a Triumph 750 oil pump.
I cut down the height of the barrels, shortened the pistons to match and skimmed the necessary off the back of the body, so that the sliding block reached the drive peg.
The feed piston was the same bore as the old pump's scavenge piston. It worked a treatand solved the problem completely.
It was the first time I attempted such an ambitous mod. I supose I could do the same again, but it would probably cost as much as a ready made Morgo or Hawker pump anyway.

nevhunter
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Re: New member, '52 VH500

Postby nevhunter » Sat Jan 18, 2020 12:09 am

We often fitted pistons too much on the tight size to make them quieter so for ages they would tend to nip up when passing on a hot day. How much also depends on the skirt design, the alloy it's made from, whether it's been sleeved and if you pull a chair. I was as guilty as anyone but I've learned and now and don't make such errors. I've also done what you have with the pump and knew a few who raced Ariels way back. Higher volume pumps can make the engine run hotter and leak oil due more flywheel oil drag. With the long unchanged sump and pick up point the pump doesn't scavenge very effectively.. Nev

PeteL
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Re: New member, '52 VH500

Postby PeteL » Sat Jan 18, 2020 7:04 am

Like you, I've learned that kind of stuff since I had that bike. But back then, it was running fine, never got too hot, same piston as was nipping up, just eased the high spots, never raced it, just rode it to and from work and to Switzerland and back.

PeteL
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Re: New member, '52 VH500

Postby PeteL » Thu Jan 23, 2020 4:51 pm

Well it arrived today. Really pleased with it !
Its been dry stored since about 1960, so its only had about 8 years use.
First thing was, a good clean, which helped me to identify what might need attention. First impressions are, much less rust than I thought. The mudguards still have some shine to their paint. Worst bits, the top of the headlamp shell, bare metal & rust, and slightly stangely the oil tank exterior is very rusted. And the wheel rims are quite rusty.
The fueltank could be prettier, but with its original dealers sticker, its too good to repaint.
So its going to be, just touching up the black paint. new cables, new tyres, check the brakes, new petrol tank rubbers and get the magneto sorted out.
The underside of the tank is original paint and no rust and the tank is shiney clean inside.
The general state of the mechanics is wierdly, "like new" So much so the I think the 18,000 miles on the speedo might be its actual mileage.
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JohnnyBeckett
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Re: New member, '52 VH500

Postby JohnnyBeckett » Thu Jan 23, 2020 5:41 pm

HI it looks like you have got a nice bike and with a clean in side of the tank you don't that very often it will not be long before you are riding it once you have gone through it good luck with it 8-) :)

PeteL
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Re: New member, '52 VH500

Postby PeteL » Thu Jan 23, 2020 5:52 pm

The only things that may hold up getting it on the road, are how long the magneto man takes and getting it registered.

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alan.moore
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Re: New member, '52 VH500

Postby alan.moore » Thu Jan 23, 2020 6:32 pm

Pete
Nice bike. It might be worth changing the petrol pipe. It looks to be the old reinforced plastic type and may not take to kindly to having modern puel running through it. My experience with tony Cooper is a few weeks for mags.
1939 VH Redhunter;1942 RN WNG;1951 Triumph 6T Thunderbird;1970 BSA B175 Bantam;1986 Yamaha SRX600 single
http://cloggymoore.wix.com/triumph-pre-unit-6t

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paul.jameson
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Re: New member, '52 VH500

Postby paul.jameson » Thu Jan 23, 2020 7:56 pm

It looks like a super buy.

Further to my last post, advising you to clean the sludge trap, can I suggest removing the oil tank completely from the bike and cleaning it out with petrol and a bottle brush or similar. I think you will find a black gunge at the bottom which is best removed at this stage. Having cleaned tank and sludge trap, refill with new oil and run for about 500 miles. Then take the tank off again, clean it out again and do the same with the sludge trap. If it hasn't run since 1960, the old oil would not contain detergents so the engine and oil tank will have the black gunge inside which comes from combustion and generally running the engine. Modern oils contain detergents which will wash the old deposits off the insides of the engine and put them in your sludge trap. Being a single, this is easily cleaned through the sump plate hole. It may be worthwhile taking off the timing cover, removing the oil pump and generally cleaning it and checking its function. Put oil into the oil tank before you tighten the pump back up so that you see clean oil coming out from behind the pump before you finally tighten it up.

When you have the back wheel out to fit new tyres (Avon AM26 are my choice) check each side of the plunger assembly for movement. If the previous owner wasn't religious about greasing the bushes you will find they are worn. Handling is much improved with new bushes but do grease them - religiously.
Paul Jameson
36 4G, 37 VH, 53 ex ISDT KHA (project), 54 KH(A), Healey 1000/4 (project)
Former Machine Registrar & Archivist, General Secretary and Single Spares Organiser (over a 25 year period).
Now Archivist once more - but not Machine Registrar.

PeteL
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Re: New member, '52 VH500

Postby PeteL » Thu Jan 23, 2020 8:18 pm

Thanks. I was thinking of taking the oil tank off to clean it out as well as give it a lick of paint.
Unfortunately I don't think Avon make the AM26 in a 20". Maybe one day when the existing rims and spokes get too dreadfully rusty, I might go for a 19" on the front.

JohnnyBeckett
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Re: New member, '52 VH500

Postby JohnnyBeckett » Thu Jan 23, 2020 8:50 pm

HI i have gone to 19" font wheel their is a lot more choice of tyres 20" you will not a lot of choice that are any good that i why i went to 19" on my ariels :!:


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