Welding Sq Four Petrol Tank

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keith wainwright
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Postby keith wainwright » Sun May 13, 2012 12:49 pm

Hello Brenton and Nev. Thanks for those suggestions I am going to tin and lead it. The idea of putting studs in is a good one. Thinking further put some lock tight on threads to prevent studs from moving when tightening up. Thanks again for the sound advice.
I am desperately trying to get it all prepared for the summer months. I have got to get an age related plate. I imported the Squ 4 in bits in one big box from the USA, its taken me about 8 months to put together. Happy motorcycling and will come when I have completed the repairs. Kind regards Keith

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adrie.degraaff
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Re: Welding Sq Four Petrol Tank

Postby adrie.degraaff » Sun May 13, 2012 4:14 pm

What we call petroleum could be lamp oil in the rest of the world.

Simon.Gardiner
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Postby Simon.Gardiner » Mon May 14, 2012 10:19 pm

I think the original tank bolts only have a short threaded length and the end of the thread tightens before the end of the bolt gets near the bottom of the tank. Still needs locking wire though!
'55 Huntmaster, '56 VH, ' 51 VH, '80 R100RT, '00 Sprint ST (but all those Ariel parts can only make one running bike...)

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Postby pete.collings » Mon May 14, 2012 10:24 pm

I have suggested in another post the use of car exhaust rubber mounts, as a way of completely rubber mounting a petrol tank, and has an additional benefit of removing the possibility of tightening a tank bolt into the underside of a tank. Once fitted, they are mostly concealed and not obvious in everyday use, but may offend the originality purist! They tend to move the tank upwards, so clearance of the handlebar clamp nuts on full lock must be checked.

keith wainwright
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Postby keith wainwright » Thu May 17, 2012 12:27 pm

Thanks’ for all your advice guy's the Bike is sitting on the stand minus petrol tank at the moment. I stripped the tank back to bare metal because I have got to get it chrome plated in the normal areas and have discovered that it has seen a bit of action? I have been looking on a well known internet auction site and have found a chrome plated tank from India £200.00? Has anybody had any experience of these tanks? The pictures look very good, I would only have to spray in the operate areas. Any comments on these tanks would be greatly appreciated. Regards Keith

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brenton.roy
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Postby brenton.roy » Thu May 17, 2012 2:23 pm

Hi Keith,
I don't know if these are actually square four tanks. You need to ask for measurements of what they have.
Vincent posted a comprehensive account of his dealings around these tanks. viewtopic.php?f=21&t=371&p=1852&hilit=India+petrol#p1852
regards, Brenton
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Re: Successfully Welded Sq Four Petrol Tank

Postby keith wainwright » Wed May 30, 2012 12:28 am

Ok finally plucked up the courage to have a go at welding the petrol tank. Looking at it every morning as you do and drinking several cups of tea pondering over it. I finally came up with ultimate solution. I filled the bugger up with water just below the area to be welded. I obtained one 3/8”BSP male blanking plug and one 1/4BSP to 3/8”BSP reducing bush from the local plumber’s merchants. I found an old brass Schrader valve and attached it to a small length of plastic tubing with a ¼”BSP male fitting on the other end. I used the blanking plug in one of the petrol tap holes and in the second petrol tank hole I fitted the Schrader valve. This enabled me to pressure test the tank. I used the filler cap to blank of petrol filler hole, temporally blanking the small bleed hole in the cap.
Very carefully grinding away the welding on one side of the 5/16” BSW fixing lug. An old pozy screwdriver was ground back to form a fine chisel head; this was very successful in removing the last attaching weld. Once I had detached the weld from one side of the fixing lug, I was able to bend the lug through 90deg exposing the damaged area of tank underneath, caused by the fixing bolt protruding too far into the fixing lug. I used a low melting point silver solder coated rod 55% silver 21% copper 22% zinc 2% tin bit expensive but the flowing characteristics of the rod was very good using a plumbers Rothernburger blow torch with Mapp Gas. I used the same rod to braze back the fixing lug.
Tested the tank with low pressure with water in it, no leeks good job. Its off to the Chrome Platters tomorrow. With all this nice weather around can’t wait to get it on the road.
I felt very happy welding the tank filled with water. Good one to remember. Thanks for all your help again Happy Biking Days to you all. Keith

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simon.holyfield
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Re:

Postby simon.holyfield » Wed May 30, 2012 6:11 am

Simon.Gardiner wrote:I think the original tank bolts only have a short threaded length and the end of the thread tightens before the end of the bolt gets near the bottom of the tank. Still needs locking wire though!


The ones I have from Acme Stainless have only 1/4" or so of thread.
cheers

Simes

'51 Square Four,
'58 Huntmaster,
'42 W/NG,
'30 Model A
http://ariel-square-four.blogspot.com

keith wainwright
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Re: Welding Sq Four Petrol Tank

Postby keith wainwright » Wed May 30, 2012 12:17 pm

Hello Simon
I used black rubber door stoppers for the tank insulation rubbers and the bolts where slighty longer. I have reduced the length and drilled the heads for wiring. Thats sorted that little problem. Thanks for your advice.
Kindest regards Keith

keith wainwright
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Re: Welding Sq Four Petrol Tank

Postby keith wainwright » Sat Jun 02, 2012 6:43 pm

Ok finally plucked up the courage to have a go at the petrol tank. Looking at it every morning as you do? drinking several cups of tea pondering over it. I finally came up with the ultimate solution. I filled the bugger up with water just below the area to be welded. I obtained one 3/8”BSP male blanking plug and one 1/4BSP to 3/8”BSP reducing bush from the local plumber’s merchants. I found an old brass Schrader valve and attached it to a small length of plastic tubing with a ¼”BSP male fitting on the other end. I used the blanking plug in one of the petrol tap holes and in the second petrol tank hole I fitted the Schrader valve. This enabled me to gently pressurize tank for testing for leaks
I very carefully ground away the welding on one side of the 5/16” BSW fixing lug. To remove the last remaining welding that could not safely be removed with the grinder. An old posy screwdriver was ground back to form a fine chisel head; this was very successful in removing the last attaching weld. Once I had detached the weld from one side of the fixing lug, I was then able to bend the bracket through 90deg exposing the damaged area of tank caused by the fixing bolt protruding too far into the fixing lug.
I then silver soldered the damaged area and lug back using Mapp gas with a plumbers torch. I must admit having it filled with water gave me a lot of comfort.

As we speak its being re-chromed, if I can work out how to put pictures on I will post shortly.
Thanks for all you advice, hope the enclosed helps in some way


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