Rear stand dimensions for 1950 Rigid Frame.

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martin.carter
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Rear stand dimensions for 1950 Rigid Frame.

Postby martin.carter » Sat Jun 16, 2018 2:32 pm

Hi All
Would be grateful if anyone out there with a rear stand pt no 5500-36, for 350 rigid frame could possibly take some measurements.
I'm after the widths for the top and bottom, plus overall lengths of the two legs plus the lengths from bottom of legs to centre of mounting holes.
Cheers in advance
Martin.

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Re: Rear stand dimensions for 1950 Rigid Frame.

Postby ian.scott » Sat Jun 16, 2018 4:02 pm

Hi
The top width you can take off your frame, the bottom width is 10.5 ", overall length is 14.25" and length from the bolt centre is 13.75"
Ian

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Re: Rear stand dimensions for 1950 Rigid Frame.

Postby martin.carter » Sun Jun 17, 2018 7:24 pm

Ian, Thanks for your response. The story is i've just received a rear stand from Draganfly after 14 months on back order, part no 5500-36. The main problem being that there are no mounting holes on my rigid frame ( have been removed sometime in the past, not by me). so trying to line up the stand the best i can to make up these mountings. This i why i asked for some dimensions, and having a few problems. First of all left leg from base to mounting hole is 13 1/2" while the right leg is 13 5/8", with inside measurement between both mounting holes is 9 1/8". Other problem being it will not swing past silencer.
Please see photos , and if anybody can confirm if it is correct or not before i return it.
Martin.
DSCN5408.JPG
DSCN5406.JPG
DSCN5405.JPG

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Re: Rear stand dimensions for 1950 Rigid Frame.

Postby paul.jameson » Sun Jun 17, 2018 9:32 pm

It looks pretty close to about right to me.

If some comedian has removed the bosses on the rear forks on which the stand normally rotates I can see your difficulty in fitting the stand. I have multiple mods on my 1937 RH500 to make the rear stand work. As someone said when following me yesterday on the Side Valve Rally run "Your rear stand isn't straight." Indeed, it rarely is, although that does occasionally happen. My frame has seen a lot of abuse over the years, is far from straight and the stand bosses are worn away in places. But the bike handles notoriously well, the stand holds the bike upright and so I have no complaints.

Feel free to PM me as necessary to see if I can help resolve your problems.
Paul Jameson
36 4G, 37 VH, 53 ex ISDT KHA (project), 54 KH(A), 54 4G Mk IV (project), Healey 1000/4 (project)
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Re: Rear stand dimensions for 1950 Rigid Frame.

Postby alan.moore » Sun Jun 17, 2018 10:03 pm

Martin,
Mine is a 1939 rigid but uses the same stand 5500-36. Mine is an original stand and the frame mounts are in the original place. The measurements of mine are the same as those Ian posted.

The mounting points on my frame are the same distance from the ground and the length of the my legs, and also the distance from the foot to the center of the mounting holes are the same on each leg. On mine the distance between the inner faces of the mounting holes (when fitted) is 8 3/4 inches. I did have to 'adjust' mine as it had some damage and twist in the legs but they were quite malleable with a bit of heat. I cannot say whether the Drags ones will stand any bending to adjust the fitted width.

Your first photo (if the level of the pavement and the shed cladding are parallel) certainly appears to show the legs are different lengths and also that the upper surface of the triangular pads that contact the frame when the stand is down are at different levels. If this is the case I do not think it will mount correctly.
Mine has upswept pipes so cannot help on the hitting silencer issue.
Cheers
Alan
1939 VH Redhunter;1951 Triumph 6T Thunderbird;1970 BSA B175 Bantam;1986 Yamaha SRX600 single
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Re: Rear stand dimensions for 1950 Rigid Frame.

Postby Simon.Gardiner » Sun Jun 17, 2018 10:53 pm

Does that right-hand leg need more of a bend to clear the silencer?
That would also shorten it slightly.
As Alan has noted the originals are quite malleable (to the extent that I had one badly distort when it smashed down in a pothole - some 'big levers' got it functioning again), might be worthwhile getting back to Drags to check the silencer clearance situation, and maybe to see if they're happy for you to 'adjust' things.

SG
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Re: Rear stand dimensions for 1950 Rigid Frame.

Postby ian.scott » Mon Jun 18, 2018 9:05 am

I thought I had seen somewhere a listing that showed different shape stands for single low pipe , single high pipe and twin high pipes but no associated number.

Ian

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Re: Rear stand dimensions for 1950 Rigid Frame.

Postby alan.moore » Tue Jun 19, 2018 10:02 pm

The 39 parts book shows the 5500-36 stand has a defined curve in the right hand leg (the 1947 parts book has a similar drawing). Mine has a similar curve. Your right side leg appears to be dead straight

stand parts book.JPG
stand parts book.JPG (20.88 KiB) Viewed 186 times


As Simon says this curve would shorten the right leg, probably by the 1/8" you are looking at and it would probably allow the stand to clear the silencer

Cheers
Alan
1939 VH Redhunter;1951 Triumph 6T Thunderbird;1970 BSA B175 Bantam;1986 Yamaha SRX600 single
http://cloggymoore.wix.com/triumph-pre-unit-6t

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Re: Rear stand dimensions for 1950 Rigid Frame.

Postby nevhunter » Wed Jun 20, 2018 12:59 am

Upswept piped bikes don't have/need any bend. The 30 model twin pipe has 2 bends so presumably do all other low twin pipers. If the stand is good quality I would spend some time stretching it, as you form the curve. It could be done cold with care over a fair distance say 2.5 inches. You need a lot of hammer blows onto a suitably shaped former. It might pay to cut and reweld the straight bar between the two members to make it easier to do. Alternatively if the length as adequate, shorten the LH member . to get it all level laterally.. Your pictures already have/ show "some" bend . Nev

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Re: Rear stand dimensions for 1950 Rigid Frame.

Postby john.whiting » Wed Jun 20, 2018 1:17 am

The bow in the RHS is definitely too small,but I d ask the supplier for a material spec. before doing anything......If the sides are cast in Britain they are most likely ductile/SG iron,which cannot be arc welded (or oxy either) without major problems....If they are cast or forged steel(unlikely),then no probs..The crossbar should be a steel rod,but dont assume anything,if the stand is from India.....Ductile iron can be bent cold,but I would heat to a red heat,so less force is needed.Never heat it beyond about 800C,if the metal melts it reverts to brittle state.....Sometimes ,if arc welded,the weld foams up,which would be upsetting with such an expensive piece.,Sometimes the weld looks 100%,but breaks in the cast as soon as force is put on it.


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