Grades of Steel

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Bob.Murphy
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Grades of Steel

Postby Bob.Murphy » Sun Jun 23, 2019 11:35 am

A question for all you Metallurgists out there . . .

I will be making wheel spindle nuts for an Ariel 'LF' (using a hub that may or may not be from a Triumph Cub). The hex bar I have, and other stuff I've seen, is "EN1A - Leaded". The technical descriptions say it is used for nuts, studs etc.

I was looking for EN16 hex in 1" or 1.25" across the flats, but would the EN1A I have be OK ?

Discuss.

:lol:

Bob.
My avatar shows the late Len Rich in 1970 with the bike I now have - a 1958 Ariel VH

nevhunter
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Re: Grades of Steel

Postby nevhunter » Sun Jun 23, 2019 12:52 pm

It's free cutting. Not very strong or hard. You might have some difficulty getting the steel in hex that would be the best for the job. You could carburize it or adapt a vehicle wheel nut if it's 1/2" x 20. Alter the taper. If it's full width thread it's not really likely to strip if the fit is OK with your hex bar effort. Not sure i'd like to make a bolt of it though Nev.

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Bob.Murphy
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Re: Grades of Steel

Postby Bob.Murphy » Sun Jun 23, 2019 6:47 pm

Thanks Nev,

The nuts will have a plain shank where the wheel adjuster rubs and I'll make them a bit wider than normal. There should be plenty of thread in there. They will be lathe turned, not cut with a Tap.

I saw some EN16 Hex, but it was too small. I'll keep looking.

Acquiring steel stock is another can of worms - Black iron, bright mild, EN1A, EN16, EN24. Then stainless in 303, 304 & 316. Then various grades of Alloy, Brass and Bronze all in various diameters in round, hex and square. How come I never have exactly what I need :roll: .

Bob.
My avatar shows the late Len Rich in 1970 with the bike I now have - a 1958 Ariel VH

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Re: Grades of Steel

Postby cmfalco » Fri Jun 28, 2019 4:20 pm

Bob.Murphy wrote: How come I never have exactly what I need
A related problem is possibly having what you need, but not knowing it because most lumps of steel look alike.

I have an estimated 4000 lbs. of Al, steel, stainless, brass etc. somewhat organized on heavy-duty shelving in my garage. However, many times as I rebuilt my 1928 Ariel I didn't have what I needed so I had to buy it. I know what I bought because one tabbed section in a binder holds specification sheets for the materials I used to fabricate components for the Ariel. In no particular order,

SINOXX 4861 steel
W1 tool steel
AISI 1117 steel
EN32 case hardening steel
EN36A case hardening steel
ERCCOCr-A (Stellite 6)
ER60S-2 TIG filler
ERNiCrMo-3 (Inconel)
G2 Dura-Bar gray iron
201 Type 1 Ni-Resist iron
544 phosphor bronze
PB1 Phosphor Bronze
SAE 660 bearing bronze

The above doesn't count random pieces of steel, Al, brass Cu, etc. used to make fixtures, jigs or miscellaneous brackets.

I labeled the remainders of each of the above with paint pens so if I need more in the future I'll know what is what. If not always having exactly what I need, at least labeling the chunks of metal addresses the problem of knowing what I do have.

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Bob.Murphy
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Re: Grades of Steel

Postby Bob.Murphy » Fri Jun 28, 2019 6:26 pm

I have recently taken to writing the grade on the stock with a paint marker pen, I have to do it as soon as it arrives and I can match it to the Invoice.

You are more organized than me, my new stock is either in a crate on wheels under the bench (short lengths) or leaning against the wall in the room above the workshop. Then there is the heap of rusty assorted pickings on the floor against my incomplete tractor (never throw any steel away . . . just in case :lol: ).

Bob.
My avatar shows the late Len Rich in 1970 with the bike I now have - a 1958 Ariel VH


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