SAFER RUST REMOVER

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volker.halbach
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SAFER RUST REMOVER

Postby volker.halbach » Sun Jul 07, 2019 11:31 am

I am going to seal my panel tank with the Slosh tank sealer. They sell and recommend for tanks their SAFER RUST REMOVER, which is "non-corrosive, non-flammable and non-toxic acid free (ph8)". That sounds easier than the usual acid. Does anyone have experience with it? The rust isn't too bad, I just always have red silt in my float bowl.

What is the best way to drain the surplus sealer? I thought about fitting an adapter instead of the fuel tap and drain it through that to keep the thread clean.

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Re: SAFER RUST REMOVER

Postby cmfalco » Sun Jul 07, 2019 5:51 pm

volker.halbach wrote:I am going to seal my panel tank with the Slosh tank sealer.
Are you really sure you want to do that? It seems like an easy fix but might (or might not) cause you serious problems in the future when additives to gasoline change. If pinhole leaks have developed then likely the metal is too thin so more serious measures are called for. If it develops further leaks after the coating has been applied then your options for dealing with those leaks is limited because will make, say, soldering very difficult indeed.

A decade ago MTBE was the principle substance added to gasoline to increase its octane, which was then replaced by ethanol. Other chemicals come and go for different reasons and if one of them attacks the coating in the future you will have a real mess on your hands because you won't be able to remove it. Some of those tank sealers say they form a polyurethane layer. If you look up the chemical compatibility you'll find it is 'resistant' to gasoline but only 'conditionally resistant' to ethanol.

I suspect/fear this will turn into an "oil thread" where lots of opinions are expressed. So, having had my say, I'll say no more.

p.s. as a safe rust remover I use molasses/treacle. It is slow acting (i.e. taking days, not minutes or hours), especially if it is cold, but removes rust without attacking the steel.

volker.halbach
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Re: SAFER RUST REMOVER

Postby volker.halbach » Sun Jul 07, 2019 9:05 pm

I realize that it is contentious topic. Of course I might get into trouble in future with a sealer.

At the moment there are no holes in my tank, but it's difficult to prevent rust and here is always fine red silt in the float bowl.

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alan.moore
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Re: SAFER RUST REMOVER

Postby alan.moore » Mon Jul 08, 2019 10:31 pm

I have used Slosh in three tanks and have had no problems. Their website says it has been tested with 85% corn ethanol so it should cope fine even if/when we reach 15% in the UK (currently 5%).
Slosh do a clear and a grey coloured sealer, use the grey type as it is much easier to make sure the sealer has fully covered the inside of the tank.

I used a 10:1 concentration of Oxalic Acid (bought as a powder on Ebay and mixed with water) to clean the inside of the my last tank (WNG with medium internal surface rust) and after flushing with water I nutralised it with a solution of Bicarbonate of soda. I then used Slosh's 'tank Klean' as instructed, before applying the Slosh, as the Tank Kleen contains a rust inhibitor which stops the tank 'flash rusting' when you dry it out prior to the Slosh treatment. (loads of info on the web re using Oxalic for this purpose). If you only have fine surface rust their rust cleaner should do the trick. After cleaning mine reveled a couple of pin holes which I soldered.

The instructions say after coating the excess is removed via the 'drain plug. Well our tanks don't have one so it has to come out of the petrol tap 'boss'. My tank had a slight ridge inside where the boss is welded in so I could not get all of it out.I just let the excess spread evenly around the bottom seam. I cleaned the excess out of the tap threads before it went off (I think I used a piece of cloth and some cellulose thinners) it stays soft for quite a while so you can get in there and scrape it out with a small pick if needs be.

SDC12100.JPG
After cleaning


SDC12115.JPG
After coating


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Alan
1939 VH Redhunter;1942 RN WNG;1951 Triumph 6T Thunderbird;1970 BSA B175 Bantam;1986 Yamaha SRX600 single
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volker.halbach
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Re: SAFER RUST REMOVER

Postby volker.halbach » Wed Jul 10, 2019 12:17 pm

Thanks, Alan. To get the last surplus drops out I'll try to use a syringe with a tube. I'll try their "safe rust remover" together with a few nuts and bolts. If that's not successful, I can still try oxalic acid and hope it doesn't eat through the metal and create pinholes. I read that two-component sealer become very hard and inflexible. That's why I thought about Slosh. But that's perhaps more an issue for big car tanks and tanks on trials bikes when they are dented.

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Re: SAFER RUST REMOVER

Postby Mick D » Wed Jul 10, 2019 3:53 pm

alan.moore wrote: Well our tanks don't have one so it has to come out of the petrol tap 'boss'.


volker.halbach wrote:To get the last surplus drops out I'll try to use a syringe with a tube.


Sorry if I've missed something, but why not drain the surplus via the filler orifice? you can even get a finger in to remove the last drops of excess.

Regards Mick

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alan.moore
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Re: SAFER RUST REMOVER

Postby alan.moore » Wed Jul 10, 2019 4:44 pm

Mick D wrote:
Sorry if I've missed something, but why not drain the surplus via the filler orifice? you can even get a finger in to remove the last drops of excess.

Regards Mick


There is an even bigger lip on the underside of the filler neck so emptying that way is not really on. Doing it through the tap boss is the way to go, it only leaves a couple of tablespoons in and you can coat this round the inside of the tank as the rest goes off.
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volker.halbach
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Re: SAFER RUST REMOVER

Postby volker.halbach » Wed Jul 10, 2019 8:12 pm

Yes, there is no way to drain it through the filler neck. The panel tank is really a complicated construction. Access to the other half, just for checking what it looks like, is really tricky.


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