Fuel Prservative

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Keith.owen
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Fuel Prservative

Postby Keith.owen » Tue Oct 29, 2019 3:47 pm

Hi,
Can anyone recommend an additive that I can use to stop the fuel in my tanking going stale?

This is the time of year when the bike is laid up, but, i'd rather not have to drain everything down.

Keith
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Re: Fuel Prservative

Postby JohnnyBeckett » Tue Oct 29, 2019 6:23 pm

i use STR-BIL i find its the best one i have used it for years and stops Ethanol rusting the tank and keeps all my engines running sweet and starting fist time keeps petrol fresh up to two years i get it on E BAY you can get a marine one now

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Re: Fuel Prservative

Postby paul.jameson » Tue Oct 29, 2019 7:56 pm

I use - nothing - which seems to work quite well since the bike always starts easily enough the following year.
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Re: Fuel Prservative

Postby nevhunter » Tue Oct 29, 2019 9:55 pm

It's caused by microbes that live in it. It happens in Jet Aircraft tanks as well but the jet fuel has an additive to reduce it's action. You might be lucky and not get "smelly tank" but it really goes off at times. Some lawn mowers recommend it (bigger ones) Primary filters get blocked in tractors that sit idle . Nev

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Re: Fuel Prservative

Postby JohnnyBeckett » Tue Oct 29, 2019 10:15 pm

if you use pump petrol it has got 5% ethanol in it and it is going up to 10% in the uk their is lots of write ups about it and what problems you can get with ethanol and water and going stale i have just had a 4 page report on it look it up and see what ethanol does

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Re: Fuel Prservative

Postby Mick D » Wed Oct 30, 2019 4:47 pm

paul.jameson wrote:I use - nothing - which seems to work quite well since the bike always starts easily enough the following year.


Me too, Bikes start fine as do the lawn mower, hedge trimmer, strimmers, etc. - I regard these additives as snake oil.

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Re: Fuel Prservative

Postby JohnnyBeckett » Wed Oct 30, 2019 5:54 pm

why do you line your tank :?: :?: i have got a racing a Aston martin in to day with the bottom of the alloy petrol tank rotted out that is why i use str-bil to stop the rust and stop petrol getting water in it and going off i have had engines on my dyno to test fuel to see how it goes off and what the power loss their is and how much water is in it and what the octane rating has gone down to ethanol loves to eat rubber pipe alloy brass cork and metal that is why your petrol tap leaks that is why new carbs have plastic floats

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Re: Fuel Prservative

Postby Keith.owen » Fri Nov 01, 2019 10:14 am

Hi,
I've not used it before so I shall probably just not worry about it since it will be just a few months at most before I take the bike out again, if not before (if there's s nice dry spell)!

No snake oil required!

Keith :mrgreen:
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Re: Fuel Prservative

Postby JohnnyBeckett » Fri Nov 01, 2019 6:20 pm

wen our bikes and cars was made in the dark ages petrol had lead in it and a lot of workers died making petrol from lead now their is no lead now that leads to wear now we are not in the dark ages and petrol has change a lot in the last 30 years and engines have bean updated to cope with modern petrol but we can not update old engines to run a 100% on modem petrol with ethanol without problems in the long run like changing jets because petrol flows at a different rate it well know in the classic motor trade just look it up dont just take my word for it i work in the classic trade every day and i see all the problems first hand you think you are ok but one day it will bite you mark my words wen your petrol tap blocks up and it starts leaking and the the brass float gets petrol in it that just half of the problems and it will get worst wen it go up to 10% ethanol

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Re: Fuel Prservative

Postby cmfalco » Sat Nov 02, 2019 3:07 pm

JohnnyBeckett wrote:ethanol loves to eat rubber pipe alloy brass cork and metal
The problem with blanket statements like this is they aren't based on fact. Ethanol does attack rubber hoses that are not made specifically to resist ethanol, so that part of the statement may or may not be true depending on the specific rubber. However, the rest is incorrect.

Wine (~12%) and fortified wine (~20%) can be in contact with corks for decades (in a few cases, hundreds of years) without degrading the cork.

I've been running a long-term experiment on the effects of ethanol and gasoline/ethanol for about a decade (my notebook is in the garage with the starting date). This experiment ran in parallel with one on the effect of a name-brand gasoline stabilizer that ended when there was nothing but a tiny residue of the fuel left. I measured the evaporation rate of the fuel as well as the weight of the final tar-like residue. The most volatile components are needed for easy starting and those disappear quite quickly, and at the same rate with or without stabilizer. Anyway, without going into the details just now, my conclusion from that experiment is the stabilizer had no effect whatever. As a result, if I won't ride a bike for longer than a week I drain the carburetor because of the resin-like film that forms in the pilot jet as the fuel evaporates.

Anyway, the experiment that is still running has a piece of an Amal Monobloc carburetor and an Amal brass jet in "pure" ethanol/gasoline from the pump, that plus the recommended dose of stabilizer, that plus the heavy recommended dose (i.e. twice as much), and 100% ethanol. The containers have sealed lids to prevent evaporation and I have measured each piece with a calibrated and extremely sensitive laboratory balance periodically over time. After a decade there has been no measurable loss in weight of any piece in any of the above mixtures, including pure ethanol. If I had my notebook in front of me I would quote percentages and error bars, but I'll just state my conclusion that ethanol has no measurable effect on the alloy of Amal Monobloc carburetors or the brass of their jets.

To summarize, you do have to replace your rubber fuel lines with SAE30 R9 and drain your carburetor if it will sit for more than a week. Adding stabilizer probably doesn't do any harm, but neither does it do any good.


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