A big problem caused by using soft gaskets with sidevalves is the head will be a series of bows between the bolts........Lap the head to the barrel....if you have a reasonably big lathe,its a lot easier to turn both faces......anyhoo,once you have a nice match,I suggest you put a smear of black silastic on the mating faces ...this will stop an insidious leak of oil coming out between the faces.......by the way,be sure to wash out any grit from the bolt threads .....best to fill the threads with wax,melt it out after lapping.
Solid ones and composite ones will still blow but the copper only ones are less likely to do so. They often grow outwards and elongate the holes. Annealing them is nearly impossible to do without damaging them. Having both head and barrel surfaces perfectly flat is the place to start from . More bolts are better but that's in the hands of the designer. IF the head has been shaved it may be weaker. I spray 550 degree engine paint (aluminium ) on both sides of the copper gasket. The engines heat will bake it. Get the engine hot on the stand without load, let it cool and retension it straight away . Have anti seize on bolts or nuts. If your motor is overheating, you are more likely to have gasket problems Make sure it's not running too retarded. More than a foot of blue pipe needs investigating. Don't rev sidevalves. Make/let them pull. Nev
as you know peter and who is going to run the single spares do it voluntary , and have jobs as well plus they have to move them from peters to there new place and get set up and that take time unless the members would like to chip in and pay to get them moved , then you will get the spares sooner and i think it is a lot to take on running the club spares
Last edited by JohnnyBeckett on Sun Jun 13, 2021 6:35 pm, edited 2 times in total.